48 HAIR CARE
NY, US); Hong Mei cigarettes (Yuxi Cigarette Factory); sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) (w=70% , Shanghai Aowei Chemical Co., Ltd.); acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer (APTAC/ACM) (Trade name: N-DurHance™ AA2000, Ashland); guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (cationic gar, Ashland); polyquaternium 10 (PQ-10, Dow Chemical); Instron 4592 tensile tester (Instron); Fluoromax-4 fluorescence spectrophotometer (HORIBA); scanning electron microscopes Sirion 200 (SEM) (Oxford Instruments); and an air pollution/dust simulation chambers (Shanghai Lijie Scientific Instruments).
Shampoo preparation Silicone-free shampoos, containing 0.2% active dosage of cationic polymers PQ-10, cationic guar and APTAC/ACM, were prepared according to the formula in Table 1. The shampoos were used to compare the pollution protection efficacy of different cationic polymers on Asian virgin hair.
Silicone shampoos, containing 0.2% active dosage of cationic guar with/without 0.2% APTAC/ACM, were prepared according to the formula in Table 2. The shampoos were used to study the pollution protection efficacy of APTAC/ACM in a premium conditioning shampoo on Caucasian virgin hair.
Anti-pollution study Cigarette smoke from a smoke generator was channelled into a closed chamber by a pump to simulate an ambient environment containing significant amounts of airborne pollutants. Asian and Caucasian virgin hair tresses were cleaned with a 5% SLES solution, then the tresses were hung up to be air-dried. The tryptophan level and cuticle morphology of the tresses were measured for initial data. The tresses, after shampoo wash, were exposed to the smoke chamber for six hours with a smoke concentration of six cigarettes/42L, then the tresses were cleaned and hung up to be air- dried. The parameters were measured again for comparison to the initial data. The tryptophan content was measured with a fluorescence spectrophotometer. The normalised tryptophan fluorescence intensity was calculated by taking an average of different sections of a hair strand, where a higher average indicates a higher tryptophan content. Statistical analysis was performed by Matched-Pairs t- Test, same letters mark indicates no statistically significant, p≥0.05, while different letters mark (a, b) indicates statistically significant differences, p<0.05. The cuticle morphology was observed with a scanning electron microscope (SEM) at 1000x magnification.
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Table 2: Silicone-in shampoo formula for pollution protection test. Ingredient (INCI Name)
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate Cationic polymer (APTAC/ACM) Coco-amido Propyl Betaine Sodium Laureth Sulfate Carbomer C980
C12-15 Alkyl Lactate Parfum
Cuar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride (cationic guar) Quaternium-22
Amodimethicone/Morpholinomethyl Silsequioxane, Trideceth-5, Glycerin
Dimethiconol (and) TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate Phenoxyethanol and Caprylyl Glycol NaOH
Sodium Chloride Aqua
Total
Supplier
Akzo Nobel Ashland Local Kao
Ashland Ashland Robertet Ashland Ashland
Wacker
Xiameter Ashland Local Local Local
Active dosage (%) 0.10 0.5 2.0
12.0 0.20 0.30 0.50 0.20 0.50
1.50
2.50 0.80
Adjust 1.50
ad 100% 100
OO HN NH2 +
combing was measured by combing work, which is defined as the work carried out by a comb going through the hair (Instron). The combing work was calculated by averaging the values of six measurements. Statistical analysis was performed by one- way ANOVA and t-Test, same letters mark indicates no statistically significant, p≥0.05, while different letters mark (a, b) indicates statistically significant differences, p<0.05.
N CI–
Figure 1: The chemical structure of acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer (APTAC/ACM).
Anti-dust study Standard dust (A1 ultra-fine, ISO 12103-1) was channelled and sprayed into a closed chamber by a pump to simulate an ambient environment containing airborne particles. The particle sizes are among 1 – 10 µm with a uniform distribution. The tresses, after shampoo wash, were exposed to the dust chamber for 10 minutes with a dust concentration of 100g/m3
, then the dry combing was measured directly. The dry
Results and discussion Chemical structure of APTAC/ACM The chemical structure of acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer (APTAC/ACM) is showed in Figure 1. APTAC/ACM copolymer is easy to attach to damaged anionic hair surface due to its high cationic charge density. APTAC/ACM has been demonstrated to be an excellent conditioning polymer in shampoo.
Anti-pollution study Cigarette smoke mainly contains carbon monoxide, PM2.5/10, nicotine, nitrogen oxides, tar, etc. PM 2.5/10 accounts for a large portion of the particulate matter and usually has nitrogen oxides, sulfides and heavy metals absorbed into its surface. Cigarette smoke is therefore similar to air pollution in terms of the pollutants it contains.6,7,9
It could be handled in the lab with minimal influence on the operators. Cigarette smoke was used to simulate a polluted environment to study the protein
November 2019
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