TEXTURES 71
Texture benefits of natural and naturally-derived clay additives
n Kate Watermann, Christina Schenatzky, Lincy Gurusamy – Elementis, EMEA & Asia
Consumers around the globe want cosmetics and other personal care products that deliver unique sensory experiences when applied to their skin while also meeting high standards for performance and sustainability. Thus, innovating sustainable, natural and naturally-derived formulations that also deliver superior functionality presents both challenges and opportunities for personal care chemists. Natural-based clay ingredients are well- positioned to equip product formulators with the ability to meet or exceed consumer demands for natural and clean products that also feel great on the skin. Sourced from nature, clay-based
ingredients can create unique, transformative textures and sensory experiences while also delivering formula stability and ease of application. Formulations containing clay-based ingredients can apply easily without leaving a greasy film on the skin, and instead leaving a silky after-feel on the skin.
The role of clay-derived additives Hydrophilic clays have a significant, positive impact on formulation aesthetics and stability. The reason is that hydrophilic clays are natural clays that provide thixotropy to personal care and cosmetic products. Thixotropy is a characteristic flow behaviour where viscosity reduces as shear is applied and recovers once the shear is removed, allowing product to display desired application property as well as suspension
1000 100 10 1 0.1 0.01 0.001 0.01 0.1 Figure 1: Rheology of smectite clays. 1 Shear Rate (s-1
10 )
100 10000 100000
No Clay (Unstable)
0.5% BENTONE HydroclayTM
1100
1% BENTONE HydroclayTM
and product stability. Controlling the degree of thixotropy through these natural clays creates a system that thins upon the force of application and allows it to recover its lost viscosity once the application force
1100
3% BENTONE HydroclayTM
1100
5% BENTONE HydroclayTM
1100
Figure 2: Demonstration of Hydroclay levels. No Clay
November 2019
0.5% Competitor Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
0.5% BENTONE HydroclayTM
1100
is removed. This flow behaviour enhances the aesthetics of a cream on the skin, allows flawless application of nail polish and prevents antiperspirants from dripping. Hydrophilic clays, specifically, natural hectorite and magnesium aluminum silicate clays, are highly effective in building viscosity and providing suspension due to their superior yield value. Yield can be considered as an internal resistance to flow under stress. Viscosity could improve this internal resistance by reducing the rate of particle movement. However, a viscosity increase alone is not enough to maintain emulsion stability when it comes to coalescence of droplets from the internal phase. This is what differentiates natural hectorite and magnesium aluminum silicate clays from other rheology modifiers. These smectite clays provide viscosity, stability
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC
Viscosity (Pas)
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