28 SKIN CARE
Extract (and) Olea europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract (and) Maltodextrin, Figure 1. This paper will review the scientific studies that have developed over several years that examined each of the individual extracts and then will explore the science behind how these three botanical actives were optimally blended to provide a mixture that functions superior to Trolamine in minimising radiodermatitis during breast cancer treatments. Correlation of these benefits to more common skin irritation and inflammation events like sunburn, acne, xerosis, or chemical irritation will be explored.
The science behind the blend The benefits of the individual botanical extracts
Bionap is an Italian-based company with more than 20 years expertise in manufacturing natural active ingredients using, as starting raw materials, by-products of the Mediterranean agricultural and food industry.6
The ingredients are distributed exclusively in the US for cosmetics, therapeutical products, and nutrition though BotanicalsPlus. Jeen supports BotanicalsPlus’ access to the cosmetic industry because of the strong relationship the company has with many cosmetic manufacturers in the US. The plants that grow in the Mediterranean are exposed to extensive solar radiation and very fertile soils and as such are well-known to develop actives that can translate to benefits in topical treatments. Capparis spinosa, called capers, grow in the region and extracts of the caper flower buds are known to have antioxidant and photoprotective benefits, anti-inflammatory effects, and possess an ability to control microbial and viral infections.7-9
Opuntia ficus-indica is more
commonly known as prickly pear cactus and grows in the region. The cladodes, which are the flower bearing body of the cactus, are filled with a polysaccharide mucilage that has well-established skin benefits including UV photoprotective effects, intense moisturising benefits (potentially superior to hyaluronic acid), and wound healing capabilities.10-13
Olives are a staple
plant of the Mediterranean where access to olive oil generates significant amounts of leaves and water-enriched by-products. The extract of the leaves provides an ingredient enriched in biophenols, such as apigenin glucoside, luteolin 7-O-glucoside, verbascoside, oleuropein and hydroxytyrosol. This pool of biophenols demonstrated antioxidant and anti- inflammatory properties, photoprotective activities and antimicrobial effects.14-16 These individual ingredients were blended at their optimum ratios of effectiveness that includes 18-20% of the
PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC 10 0 0 1 2 3 4 5 time (weeks)
Figure 2: Measurements of changes in Erythemal Index verses baseline (ΔE.I.) as measured by Reflectance Spectroscopy from Week 1 to Week 8 of the clinical Trial [18]. Error bars indicate 95% Confidence. Control, N=18; Commercial Product, N=24; Mediterranean botanical blend Treatment, N=26.
, now referred to as ‘Mediterranean botanical blend’, Figure 1.
caper bud extract, 13-15% of the opuntia extract and 15-18% of the olive leaf extract to create the ingredient blend called Skin Save®
Examination of Mediterranean botanical blend benefits for radiodermatitis In 2010, the Italian company, working in collaboration with the University of Catania School of Pharmacy, gained approval to
test the Mediterranean botanical blend in a study on women undergoing radiation treatment for breast cancer.17
In this study,
68 female volunteers were provided with one of two possible creams selected for the study. The creams included a commercial pharmaceutical Trolamine ointment called Biafine, used by 24 of the volunteers, that comprised the ingredients shown in Table 1 and contained 0.7% of triethanolamine (Trolamine) as the active ingredient.
November 2019 6 7 8 9
Table 1: Ingredients in experimental Mediterranean botanical blend formulation and commercial Biafine (Trolamine) formulation.
Phase Oil phase Aqueous phase
Emulsification ingredients and preservatives
Mediterranean Botanical Blend Formulation Ingredients
PPG-15 Stearyl Ether Isohexadecane/PPG-15 Stearyl Ether
Distilled water Xanthan gum
Mediterranean botanical blend (3%)
Steareth-2 Steareth-21
Cetylstearylic acid
Ethylene glycolphenyl undecylether p-hydroxybenzoate Biafine Formulation
Phase Oil phase Ingredients
Paraffinum liquidum Paraffin Squalene Avocado oil Parfum
Aqueous phase
Distilled water Propylene glycol Triethanolamine (total thriethanolamine 0.7%) Triethanolamine alginate and sodium salt
Emulsification ingredients and preservatives
Glycol stearate Stearic acid Cetyl palmitate Potassium sorbate Sodium methylparaben Sodium propylparaben
n Control n Mediterranean botanical blend formulation n Commercial product 40 30 20
ΔE.I.
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