HAIR CARE 51


Figure 8: APTAC/ACM alone (right), and forms a homogenous complex gel layer with SLES on hair fibre surface (left).


toward the surface (data not shown). Creating a hydrophobic layer on hair surface is an essential element when providing anti-pollution and anti-dust properties.


No build-up on hair With above ISCF™ mechanism, the build- up problem of APTAC/ACM layer on hair surface might be questioned. A custom designed streaming potential instrument was used to monitor flow rate of solutions through a plug of hair fibres. By monitoring the flow rate, the thickness of an absorbed polymer on the surface of hair could be determined. If a polymer treatment builds up each time hair is repeatedly treated with a polymer, a decrease in the flow rate (electrokinetic permeability) will be observed. Thus, a polymer that is known to build up will leave increasingly thick layers with each subsequent treatment. In Figure 9, the flow rate has been monitored after different treatments. First the flow rate of untreated hair is measured, and then the hair is treated with a polymer (0.1% APTAC/ACM) and surfactants (1%SLES/ CAPB,12/2 wt.%), and rinsed with water.


200


The cycle was repeated five times. The results demonstrate that the flow rates did not change significantly after five treatments cycles with APTAC/ACM and surfactant solution indicating no build-up on hair surface.


Conclusion Through an in situ Controlled Flocculation (ISCF) mechanism, a homogenous, hydrophobic, elastic film will form on hair fibre surface when hair tresses are washed by shampoo containing APTAC/ACM. This complex layer will provide improved hair conditioning, as well as anti-dust and anti- pollution benefits. This technology is compatible not only with shampoo, but also most other hair care formulation systems, such as conditioner, mask, and leave-on systems. It also exhibits great potential for either silicone-in or silicone-free systems, without build-up on hair after multiple washes.


PC


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the impact of pollution, stress and UV [M]. Bangkok: In-Cosmetics Asia, 2014.


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3 Takada K, Nakam A, Mastsuo N, et al. Influence of oxidative and/ or reductive treatment on human hair [I]: analysis of hair damage after oxidative and/or reductive treatment [J]. Journal of Oleo Science 2003; (52): 541-548.


4 Rohde R A, Muller R A. Air pollution in China: mapping of concentrations and sources [J]. PLoS One 2015; 10(8): 1-18.


5 Blosl N, Ott R, Schacht K. Efficient Hair Protection – the Multi- functional silk polypeptides new and promising strategy against pollution [J]. SÖFW Journal 2017; (413):43-45.


6 Adamson J, Azzopardi D, Errington G, et al. Assessment of an in vitro whole cigarette smoke exposure system: The Borgwaldt RM20S 8-syringe smoking machine [J]. Chemistry Central Journal 2011; (5):50.


7 Qu X, Niu L, Kroon B, Foltis L, Pollution Damage and Protection of Asian Hair [J]. Cosmetics, 2018; (5):17


8 Chang X W, Cox1 B, Thomas Föster T. Study of the dust deposition prevention effect of hair shampoo and conditioner formulations containing moringa oleifera seed extract [C]. Poster presentation at the 23nd IFSCC Conference, September 21-23, 2015, Zurich, Switzerland.


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9 Wang B, Hang Ho S S, Ho K F, et al. An environmental chamber study of the characteristics of air pollutants released from environmental tobacco smoke [J]. Aerosol and Air Quality Research, 2012; 12: 1269-1281.


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Polymer/ surfactant cycle


Polymer/ surfactant cycle


Polymer/ surfactant cycle


Polymer/ surfactant cycle


Polymer/ surfactant cycle


10 Jachowicz J, Mcmullen R L. Tryptophan fluorescence in hair— Examination of contributing factors [J]. Journal of Cosmetic Science 2011; 62(3): 291-304.


80 0 2000 4000 6000 8000 Time (sec)


Figure 9: Flow rate measured by a streaming potential instrument. No changes in flow rate is consistent with no polymer (APTAC/ACM) build-up on hair surface.


November 2019 10000 12000 14000


11 Velasco M V R, Dias T C S, Freitas A Z, et al. Hair fiber characteristics and methods to evaluate hair physical and mechanical properties [J]. Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences 2009 45(1): 153-164.


12 Nuutinen T, Kroon B, Everaert E, McMullen R, Usher C, Qu X, Lasting Hair Conditioning via In situ Controlled Flocculation [J]. Cosmetics & Toiletries 2014; 12: 32-35.


PERSONAL CARE ASIA PACIFIC


Flow rate (g/min)


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