WAXES
There are additional benefits to using cold process waxes. This technology, which was described in detail in the March 2011 edition of Personal Care Europe, allows you to eliminate heating of two vessels which are typically used in conventional hot process systems. The Jeesperse CPW cold process, which requires just one vessel and one mixer, eliminates the heating/cool down steps and all of the issues associated producing a stable, hot process emulsion. Quite simply, consistent emulsions from batch-to-batch can then become the norm. And, of course, energy requirements are reduced to a fraction of a conventional hot process emulsion.
Since CPW products can be made with any existing wax, the choices are unlimited. Synthetic wax, natural wax and functional waxes (i.e., fatty acids and fatty alcohols) can be used cold. Waxes with very high melt points are also possible. For example, Jeesperse CPW-PE-126A contains a polyethylene wax that melts at 126˚C. In such cases, if your emulsion contains volatile solvents, you can make the emulsion cold, thus reducing the difficulties encountered when using volatile ingredients. Loss of solvent due to evaporation is reduced and therefore consistency of the emulsion is greatly improved. Formulation rheology can also be adjusted with CPW product selection. Lower viscosity options can be made that increase the level of waxes without increasing the viscosity. A combination of CPW products can also be used to achieve the desired formulation rheology and aesthetic effects (Table 1).
The mascara formulations (see right) are produced using Jeesperse CPW technology. Note in the first that a versatile, Jeesperse CPW-S concentrate ‘base’ is used to produce the final mascara. In the second formulation based on Jeesperse CPW-CG-T, it requires only two phases and no heating to produce this cold process, stable mascara.
Conclusion Formulating mascaras can be a time- consuming and complicated process. Cold process formulating and production of mascaras to incorporate the critical, highly functional and versatile waxes has been next to impossible. With the introduction of the Jeesperse CPW patent-pending cold process technology, formulators and manufacturing personnel now have an option to produce aesthetically appealing mascaras via more sustainable cold process techniques. This simultaneously allows for energy reduction, reduced heating/cooling processing time and overall more consistent mascara production. PC
Formulation 1: Jeesperse CPW-S Mascara
Jeesperse CPW-S J8-87 Base Phase Ingredients A Water
Jeesperse CPW-S1 B Jeecide CAP-51 Procedure
Mix phase A until homogenous, then add in phase B, and mix. Jeesperse CPW-S J8-87/J8-88
Phase Ingredients A
B INCI Nomenclature
Jeesperse CPW-S1 J8-87 Base
Luviset PUR2 FA 4002 ID3
Jeesilc EM-901 C Black Oxide 11S24 Procedure
Mix phase A until homogenous, then add in phase B, and mix. Stability
This product passed stability test analysed for 3 months. Suppliers
1 Jeen International 2 BASF 3 Dow Corning 4 Kobo
Formulation 2: Jeesperse CPW-CG-T Mascara Phase Ingredients A
DI Water
Natrosol 250 HR CS1 JEESPERSE CPW-CG-T2
INCI Nomenclature Distilled Water
Hydroxyethyl Cellulose Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyl
Dimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
PVPK-303 JEESILC PS-VHLV2 B
Koboguard 5400 IDD4 Black BBO-11S24 Avalure AC 120M
Polymer5 Jeecide CAP-52 Procedure
Mix phase A until homogenous, then add in phase B, and mix Stability
This product passed stability test analysed for 3 months.
Suppliers 1 Aqualon 2 Jeen International 3 ISP 4 Kobo
5 Lubrizol April 2012 PERSONAL CARE 93
Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Water, Hexylene Glycol
1.0 Polvinylpyrrolidone
Isododecane, Bis-vinyl dimethicone/ dimethicone copolymer
Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene, Isododecane Iron Oxide (77499), Triethoxycaprylylsilane Acrylates Copolymer
1.5 6.5
5.0 9.0 6.5
J11-81 NJM %
60.0 0.5
10.0 Water, Jeesperse CPW-S, Jeecide CAP-5
Water, Polyurethane, Ethanol Isododecane, Acrylates/
Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer Cetyl PEG/PPG-10 Dimethicone
Iron Oxide (77499), Triethoxycaprylylsilane
J8-87 J8-88 60.3 71.1
30.7 – – 17.4 – 1.0 9.0 10.5
INCI Nomenclature Water
Helianthuss Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Sodium Polyacrylate
Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Water, Hexylene Glycol
J8-87/J8-88 (Patent Pending) %
89.0 10.0
1.0
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