ANALYSIS
depending on glamour as a brand attribute to an overly modest set of consumers, still remains to be seen. Halal issues involved with cosmetics and personal care products are far from being totally agreed upon and without skeptical criticisms. For example, there are different schools of thought about whether Islamic teachings prohibit alcohol use on the body outside oral consumption. Not all Muslims are in agreement over this as many of the blogs22
and comments at the end of
online articles show. Advertising and marketing methods are also leading to criticisms as the billboard shown in Figure 2 is ambiguous in what it is actually promoting to the consumer. As we have seen with the ‘Arab Spring’, Muslims in many countries are now engaging in debate about what form of society and government they should have in the future, where interpretation of religious doctrine and openness to outside influences are being redefined as we write. There is little doubt that the control of outside influences will be less than before as satellite TV and the internet are being freed up. How this equates to the future demand of cosmetics and awareness about composition is yet to be fully known. However one thing is certain, the Muslim market will gradually represent 15%-20% of the total market – something that cannot be ignored.
As a final word, the objective of this article was to skim through some of the issues related to the market, supply chain, and ethical issues concerning Halal cosmetics and personal care products in the market today. The intention of the author is to point out that another new and potentially substantial market segment is growing and should be taken seriously, not necessarily for market positioning purposes, but at least for consideration in ingredient selection and product certification.
PC
References 1 Malaysian External Trade Development Corporation (MATRADE) research.
2 See consumer brands of the top 100 companies in the Muslim world (2010)
www.tinyurl.com/84kudyw
3 Kamarul Azman Kamaruzan. Halal cosmetics: between real concerns and plain ignorance, The Halal Journal.
www.halaljournal.com/article/ 3375/halal- cosmetics:-between-real-concerns-and-plain- ignorance. (accessed 31 January 2012).
4
www.alarabiya.net 5
www.saafpureskincare.com 6 Hunter M. Essential oils: art, agriculture,
28 PERSONAL CARE April 2012
The rise and rise of non-alcoholic perfumes
Fine fragrances have a long history with the Arabs since ancient times and this connection can still be seen with the agarwood trade and ‘attar’ traders in Egypt, Tunisia, Syria, Jordan, Gulf States, and Lebanon. This ‘attar’ trade has become modernised in Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore with companies offering non-alcoholic ‘knock offs’ of the big name fine fragrances. Conventional fine perfumes usually contain 70%-80% of high pharmaceutical grade ethanol as a carrier, with parfum de toilette or eau de parfum up to 90% ethanol. Ethanol acts as a carrier for fine fragrances, has a cooling effect on the skin, and assists the odour radiate from the skin through evapouration. However Muslim consumers frown upon using alcohol on their skin in line with their beliefs, and seek alternatives. Instead of using ethanol, non-alcoholic perfumes are water-based. Some even utilise apricot kernel, and jojoba oils to bring a more natural opulence to the fragrance.
science, industry and entrepreneurship: a focus on the Asia-Pacific region. New York: Nova, 2009.
7 Burgmann T. Growing Muslim population pushing companies to produce products they can eat. The Toronto Star, 22 July 2007.
www.thestar.com/business/article/238551 (accessed 31 January 2012)
8 Rossi E, Prlic A, Hoffman R. A study of the European cosmetic industry, executive summary. European Commission, Directorate General for Enterprise and Industry, November 2007.
ec.europa.eu/enterprise/cosmetics/doc /exec_summ_cosmetics_2007.pdf (accessed 31 January 2012).
9 Othman R, Mohd Zaihani SH, Ahmad ZA. Customers’ attitude towards halal food status: a survey on Penang Muslim customers. In: Proceedings of the 2nd National Conference on Entrepreneurship and Small Business. Vistana Hotel, Penang, 9-10 December 2006.
10 Al-Qur’an (5:5), (2:168). 11 Chaudry MS. Social and moral code of Islam, Batu Caves, Selangor, Malaysia. Masterpiece Publications 2006: 15.
12 Halal-Haram Guide, Penang, Consumers Association of Penang, 2006: 17.
13 Amin M. Wisdom of the Prophet Muhammad, Lahore, Pakistan, Sh. Muhammad Ashraf, 1965.
The non-alcoholic fine fragrance industry has grown from a small specialised market where a few traders imported concentrates from France, which they diluted and bottled, for sale at night markets and shopping centres to over a US$800 million industry at retail level today. It is still growing tremendously. Originally the industry ‘copied’ and imitated the popular fine fragrances of the world, but today companies are developing their own localised scents, own brandings and developing loyal customer followings. Non-alcoholic fine fragrance fits well with the colourful flowery fashion of Malaysia and persona of the modern Malay woman. Fragrance is seen as an important accessory where creative marketing companies develop personality based lines matched to the colours of their fashions through direct marketing channels. This lucrative market niche has not been left to the locals. Astute French companies have been seen entering this market bringing with it a European flare.
14 Abdullah A, Huda N. Nutrition Security in Muslim Countries: The Drive Towards a Healthy Ummah. In: Saifuddeen SM, Mohd. Salleh S, Sobian A. Food and Technological Progress: An Islamic Perspective, Kuala Lumpur, MPH Publishing 2006: 173.
15 Al-Qur’an (7:58) 16 Sungkar I. Developing the halal value proposition from farm to folk. In: Proceedings of the 3rd Malaysian International Agro-Bio Business Conference. Kuala Lumpur, 12-13 July 2007.
17 Hunter M. An Islamic business model: a Tawhid approach. SME-Entrepreneurship Global Conference 2008, 4 July 2008, Monash University, Australia.
18 Hunter M. The concept of HalalGAP as a means of gaining unfair competitive advantage. World Food Shortage Conference – Series II, 9-10 July 2009. Putra World Trade Centre (PWTC), Kuala Lumpur.
19 Rahman HA. Halal agro-industry supply chain. World Food Shortage Conference – Series II, 9-10 July 2009, Putra World Trade Centre (PWTC), Kuala Lumpur.
20
www.halalscience.org/en/main/index.php 21 Dahlan W. Enabling Halal industry and trade through Halal science and technology. 1st East Asia Agri-Business Seminar 2010, 30 November 2010. Malaysia Expo Exposition Park, Serdang (keynote speech).
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