MARINE INGREDIENTS
when water temperature descends as low as 1˚C – without any escaping possibilities. To better survive these harsh conditions, S. longicruris accumulates nutrients and polysaccharides (laminarans and fucoidans) throughout the fall. This is when S. longicruris is harvested, just before the area is covered with ice. Exposure to temperature stress, known to involve the production of reactive oxygen species, is likely to turn on selective metabolic pathways, for the production of protective molecules. Moreover, S. longicruris appears to have developed a mechanism to cope with mechanical stress by adopting a thickened ‘differentiated’ morphology in the segments of the lamina exposed to high water movements such as waves. One such aqueous extract enriched in polysaccharides and obtained from autumn-harvested S. longicruris – Regenesea – has been developed and characterised in terms of its effect on signs of skin ageing. A randomised placebo-controlled clinical trial has highlighted the efficacy of the extract to visually improve skin smoothness, skin firmness, and wrinkle appearance in a panel of volunteers. Dermatologist evaluation was confirmed by in situ skin surface optical digitalisation using Visioscan, with similar positive results (see Fig. 1). The age-reversing efficacy of the extract was further supported by the reactivation (or rejuvenation) of gene expression, in an in vitro model of aged fibroblast cells. In addition, the extract clinically improved skin hydration, barrier function, and skin elasticity as documented using Corneometer, Tewameter, and Cutometer measurement techniques, respectively. A positive effect on skin barrier function was corroborated by in vitro stimulation of keratinocyte differentiation.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the efficacy of Regenesea demonstrated in cell-based assays and clinical trials puts forward a concept of age- reversing action. Results obtained in gene expression experiments have shown the
Day 15 0 –5
–10 –15 –20
–10.1% Day 30 Day 60
–11.2% –15.7% ■ Placebo ■ Regenesea (p<0.0001) Figure 1: Reduction of wrinkle volume (%)/baseline.
ability of the extract to restore normal expression of structural proteins such as collagens, while normalising expression of their proteolytic enzymes (MMPs). Proper expression of antioxidant enzymes usually reduced with ageing (catalase and glutathione reductase) was also re- established. Clinical benefits of Regenesea were seen regarding skin hydration, skin elasticity, and wrinkle reduction, all parameters normally affected with ageing. Thus, algae extracts such as the one described here have already proved to be efficient and beneficial modulators of skin physiology. The future should see the development of a variety of topical applications as new sources are characterised.
Anti-ageing vegetal stem cells from marine origins Biotech Marine, France
Cellulosomes from Eryngium is an anti- ageing and global skin restructuring ingredient that protects the skin from oxidative stress coming from the inside. Preservative free and Ecocert compliant, Cellulosomes of Eryngium are obtained from Eryngium maritimum stem cell culture.
Eryngium targets the skin comprehensively, acting on the regeneration of the epidermis by reinforcing the cell differentiation and stimulating the
biosynthesis of the dermo-epidermal junction. The Eryngium stem cells protect the epidermis from UVA aggressions and from oxidative stress at the dermal level. It has been proven that a cream containing 0.05% of cellulosomes of Eryngium improves significantly moisturisation (95%), firmness (27%) and smoothness of the skin (38%). Cellulosomes of Eryngium are obtained from specific Eryngium maritimum stem cells culture. Eryngium maritimum or ‘sea holly’ is a sea shore plant native from Europe. It is mainly found in sandy dunes. Another product, CIC2, is a cutting edge ingredient made from marine plant stem cells that produces age defying results. The sea fennel stem cell-derived CIC2 has a lightening, anti-ageing and skin renewal effect. It is Ecocert compliant, and preservative free. Tests using a 0.5% concentration of CIC2 show clear reduction of the pigmentation and an obvious lightening effect, as CIC2 works to reduce the capture of melanosomes by keratinocytes (-18% melanin rate) and to inhibit the transformation of phenylalanine into tyrosine (-33% L-tyrosine).
CIC2 enhances skin hydration (+134% with a cream containing 0.1% CIC2), stimulates cell proliferation, while also offering protection against UVB induced free-radicals.
Biotech Marine. 44 PERSONAL CARE April 2012
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