FORMULATION GUIDE
DYNAMIC TWO-PHASE CONDITIONING SPRAY PHASE INGREDIENTS
INCI NAME
A Water Deionised Aqua) Isopropanol
Arlamol™ HD1
Crodamol™ STS1 Crodamol™1
KeraDyn™ HH1 Water Soluble
Colourant Fragrance
Preservative Lactic Acid
Isohexadecane
PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate Isotridecyl Isononanoate
Bis-Ethyl (Isostearylimidazoline) Isostearamide
C2556 % W/W
To 100 30.00 30.00 5.00 5.00 1.00
qs
qs qs qs
Procedure Add the KeraDyn HH to the Water phase and heat to 70˚C-75˚C adjusting the pH to 4-5 as necessary. Once dissolved, allow to cool down and add the remaining ingredients. Properties Appearance: Two phase system pH: n/a
Viscosity: Water-thin Supplier 1 Croda
DYNAMIC SHAMPOO PHASE INGREDIENTS
INCI NAME
A Water Deionised Aqua Empicol ESB3 Crodateric™ CAS 501
Crodasinic™ LS30 1 Crothix™ Liquid 1
C2548 % W/W
Aqua (and) Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
To 100 25.00 15.00
Aqua (and) Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 10.00
Peg-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate 3.00 (and) Aqua (and) Peg-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Crodasol™ AC1 KeraDyn™ HH1
Preservative Lactic Acid
Procedure Premix KeraDyn HH and Crodasol AC.
Add the remaining ingredients with stirring at ~300 rpm. Properties
Appearance: Clear liquid pH: 6-7
Viscosity: 5,733 cP ± 10% (Spdl 92, rpm 12, 25˚C) Stability: 1 month at 4˚C, 25˚C, 40˚C, 45˚C, 50˚C and light. Supplier 1 Croda
EVONIK INDUSTRIES AG DUAL-ACTION WRINKLE SERUM
PHASE INGREDIENTS A Abil®
Abil® INCI NAME
INNOSPEC LTD EVERYDAY SULFATE FREE SHAMPOO
PHASE INGREDIENTS A Water
INCI NAME Aqua
H0048 % W/W
q.s to 100
Ucare Polymer Polyquaternium-10 0.10 JR-400
B Iselux® Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate C Empigen BS/FA Cocamidopropyl Betaine
MK 3/10-25 % W/W
EM 90 Cetyl Peg/ppg-10/1 Dimethicone EM 97 S Bis-Peg/ppg-14/14 Dimethicone, Dimethicone Cyclopentasiloxane
Tegosoft® DEC Diethylhexyl Carbonate HyaCare® Filler CL Aqua; Ethylhexyl Stearate, Sodium
Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/ Sebacate, Sodium Isostearate
Tocopherol 0.5
1.5 1.0
12.0 3.0 2.5
D Citric Acid 6.00 Natrlquest E30 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate 0.45 20.00 pH to 6.00
E Preservative q.s Perfume q.s Sodium Chloride
0.40
Procedure Add PQ-10 to the water, mix until dispersed
Add phase B sequentially with stirring and heat to 40˚C. Add phase C, maintain at 40˚C. Allow to cool, adjust pH with phase D. Add phase E, salt thicken adding at 0.2% increments until desired viscosity is reached.
April 2012 PERSONAL CARE 149
Peg-60 Almond Glycerides (and) Peg-6 3.00 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Bis-Ethyl (Isostearylimidazoline) Isostearamide
1.00 qs To pH 6-7 Zinc Stearate 0.5
B Water 69.7 Glycerin 4.0 Butylene Glycol Sodium Chloride Tego®
4.0 0.8
Pep 4-17 Tetrapeptide-21; Glycerin; Butylene Glycol; 0.50 Aqua
Z Preservative, Perfume Procedure
Heat phase A to approx. 80˚C.
Add phase B (80˚C or room temperature) slowly while stirring. Homogenise for a short time. Cool with gentle stirring below 30˚C and homogenise again.
QUICK BREAKING W/O EMULSION PHASE INGREDIENTS
INCI NAME
A Abil® Abil®
Tegosoft® ABIL®
EM 180 Cetyl Peg/ppg-10/1 Dimethicone Wax 9801 Cetyl Dimethicone DEC Diethylhexyl Carbonate 350 Dimethicone
H 8/10-7 % W/W
0.80 1.60 4.00 1.00
Cyclomethicone 4.00 Magnesium Stearate
0.30
B Water 81.50 Propylene Glycol Sodium Chloride
C Microcare MEM1 Procedure
Intensively disperse magnesium stearate into Oil phase (Ultra-Turrax 25,000 rpm, 1 Min.) at room temperature. Add water phase at room temperature slowly while stirring.*
Properties Stirrer: MFR
* Agitation 200 rpm, incorporation time 20 minutes for a 200 g batch. Viscosity: ~70 Pas (r.t.; Brookfield RVT, Spindle C/10 rpm) Stability: 3 months between -5˚C and 45˚C. Supplier
1 Thor GmbH Homogenise for 2 minutes at 1100 rpm. Dipropylene Glycol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Aqua, Methylisothiazolinone 0.80
5.00 1.00
q.s.
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