Angela Kleiner, Pascaline Criton, Olga Gracioso, Karl Lintner – Sederma, France ACTIVES
Cosmetogenomics and the mechanisms of efficacy
Launching new cosmetic products with innovative active ingredients requires science and evidence: science to understand underlying principles, to build theories with predictive power in order to birth the breakthrough idea that will create the cutting-edge product. And evidence because credible and sufficient proofs are a must-have to support claims all over the world. Let us see how genomics, proteomics and other recent claim substantiation technologies, gathered under the specific term of ‘cosmetogenomics’, represent a sophisticated solution to predict and validate performance of cosmetic active ingredients and/or finished products. A few definitions to start with: genomics, first, is the analysis of gene expression that can be achieved thanks to transcriptomics (study of RNA transcripts from genome), and/or proteomics (study of protein activity). A special focus of research into the genome is cosmetogenomics, which is the analysis of the modulation of gene activity induced by a cosmetic active ingredient (or a finished product). Depending on how cosmetic actives interact with the cell’s DNA, specific RNA molecules are produced. The sum of these molecules constitutes the transcriptome (studied by transcriptomics) and is the matrix for the proteins ultimately synthesised (studied by proteomics). The synthesised molecules - enzymes, carriers, collagen, elastin and others – take on a range of tasks which the cell’s metabolism supports and maintains. With the help of metabolomics the metabolic exchange is assigned to the transcriptomes and the proteomes. If the concerned metabolite is a lipid, then it goes to the field of lipidomics which analyses modifications of lipid structure and function. These methods have been used for some years now to research and develop cosmetic actives and also to evaluate them as well as finished products. Indeed, the results of such targeted studies clearly highlight the cell metabolism and the perceivable effects that are generated by the active ingredients (or the finished
products). It sounds attractive that the underlying science has found a new way into the world of product efficacy, as it helps to support cosmetic claims. Cosmetogenomics helps to establish an extensive characterisation of new actives and enables the conception of new marketing claims.
Active substances evaluated by cosmetogenomics Sederma’s portfolio includes a whole range of different actives whose efficacy has been evaluated using cosmetogenomic methods. In the gene activation studies keratinocytes, fibroblasts and adipocyte cultures were used and a subsequent metabolomic study allowed the verification of the results obtained using transcriptomics.
The anti-ageing active, Matrixyl 3000, is well-known for its anti-wrinkle action. It significantly reduces noticeable wrinkles, smoothes a rough skin surface and increases the skin’s elasticity and resilience. More recent data confirm a positive action on the structure of the papillary dermis which suffers particularly from the damaging effects of UVA radiation. Using this active substance, the defragmentation of the fibre network is reduced (see Fig. 1) and the new material matrix is formed. This action, observed in vivo, is supported by the gene activation profile. The activated gene phases code for molecules that are involved in the formation of new matrix proteins, and that stimulate cell renewal and cell anchoring. In particular the stage when the new cells
Figure 1: Fibre network at T0 (left), and after 2 months treatment with Matrixyl 3000. April 2012 PERSONAL CARE 135
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