MARINE INGREDIENTS
reduces the depth of the wrinkles after 15 minutes and for a period of six hours. The self evaluation questionnaire revealed that more than 70% of the volunteers found their skin smoothed out and their expression lines softened.
Conclusion
The marine exopolysaccharide EPS Seafill increases the synthesis of collagen I and the synthesis of elastin by human fibroblasts. Thanks to its stimulating effect, it aims to improve skin firmness and elasticity. Moreover, it improves the contraction of a collagen lattice, showing that it generates a tightening effect on the collagen fibre network for a resulting tensing effect. These in vitro effects were confirmed by
two in vivo studies that demonstrated that EPS Seafill lifts cutaneous relief and has a smoothing effect. Due to its novel structure and its skin affinity, it can reduce wrinkles 15 minutes after application. Its tightening effect lifts crow’s feet roughness to smooth out cutaneous relief.
This marine exopolysaccharide has no land based equivalent and represents a new and original source of molecules since it helps to fight against one of the main intrinsic factors of skin ageing.
a
18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
mm 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 b
18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
mm 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
Figure 9: View of crow’s feet wrinkles in a volunteer, shown by fringe projection parameters a) before (T0), and b) after treatment with a cream containing 2% EPS Seafill (T+15 minutes).
t+15 min – t0 (%)
+6 +4 +2 0
PC
References 1 Jenkins G. Molecular mechanisms of skin ageing. Mech Ageing Dev 2002; 123 (7): 801-10.
2 Rittie L, Fisher GJ. UV-light-induced signal cascades and skin aging. Ageing Res Rev 2002; 1 (4): 705-20.
3 Frei V, Perrier E, Orly I, Huc A, Augustin C, Damour O. Activation of fibroblast metabolism in a dermal and skin equivalent model: a screening test for activity of peptides. Int J Cosmet Sci 1998; 20 (3): 159-73.
a
–2 –4 –6
■ MEPS cream t+3 hours – t0 (%) ■ Placebo cream
t+6 hours – t0 (%) +4.9%
–0.6% –1.9% –5.1%* *p<0.05 Student’s t-test
Figure 10: Change in SPt parameter (depth of main wrinkle) 15 min, 3 hours and 6 hours after application of a cream containing 2% EPS Seafill versus a placebo cream.
4 Lavker RM. Cutaneous aging: chronologic versus photoaging. In: Gilchrest BA ed. Photodamage. Cambridge, MA: Blackwell Science, 1995: 123–35.
5 Bell E, Ivarsson B, Merrill C. Production of a tissue-like structure by contraction of collagen lattices by human fibroblasts of different proliferative potential in vitro. Proc Natl Acad Sci USA 1979; 76 (3): 1274-8.
b
6 Lambert CA, Soudant EP, Nusgens BV, Lapière CM. Pretranslational regulation of extracellular matrix macromolecules and collagenase expression in fibroblasts by mechanical forces. Lab Invest 1992; 66 (4): 444-51.
7 Klein CE, Dressel D, Steinmayer T et al. Integrin alpha 2 beta 1 is upregulated in fibroblasts and highly aggressive melanoma cells in three- dimensional collagen lattices and mediates the reorganization of collagen I fibrils. J Cell Biol 1991; 115 (5): 1427-36.
8 Schiro JA, Chan BM, Roswit WT et al. Integrin alpha 2 beta 1 (VLA-2) mediates reorganization and contraction of collagen matrices by human cells. Cell 1991; 67 (2): 403-10.
Figure 11: Photographs of crow’s foot on a volunteer treated with EPS Seafill cream at a) T0, b) T+15 minutes, c) T3 hours, and d) T6 hours.
c d
9 Langholz O, Rockel D, Mauch C et al. Collagen and collagenase gene expression in three- dimensional collagen lattices are differentially regulated by alpha 1 beta 1 and alpha 2 beta 1 integrins. J Cell Biol 1995; 131 (6 Pt 2): 1903- 15.
10 Bellows CG, Melcher AH, Aubin JE. Contraction and organization of collagen gels by cells cultured from periodontal ligament, gingiva and bone suggest functional differences between cell types. J Cell Sci 1981; 50: 299–314.
11 Fernandès E, Ramtani S, C. Oddou C et al. Étude de l’interaction cellule-matrice lors de la contraction d’un lattis de collagène peuplé de fibroblastes. In: Ribreau et al. eds. Matériaux et Structures des Sciences de l’Ingénieur et du Vivant. Paris: Tec et Doc 2000: 47-54.
50 PERSONAL CARE April 2012
–0.2%
–0.1%
Change to SPt parameter (% compared to T0)
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