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SENSORY EVALUATION


reproduction of the consumers’ behaviour. After the common training, the development of a shared language and the agreed ‘homogenisation’ of the scores, the evaluation phase is carried out individually, in a specific room, usually air-conditioned and with no external noise or other influences. The sensorial perceptions related to the different phases of the product use (before, during and after the application) are ranked with a mark over a linear scale 10 cm long.


The scale represents the degrees of each attribute between the ranges of intensities. The score sheets are collected and the marks converted to scores by measuring the distance of the mark from one end of the line. Means and standard deviations are calculated and used to perform the statistical analysis. Panellists’ skills are recorded and monitored by the panel leader for reproducibility, consistency, sensitivity and calibration.


The identification of the required specific type of sensorial analysis is suggested by the objectives of the study, the level of investigation required and the number of samples to be tested. Some examples of typical cosmetic problems are described in Table 1.


The QDA panel has a sensitivity which is on average 1,000 times greater than the normal consumer, so it may detect very small differences between products. In addition, its results are valid in any market place, being independent from consumer acceptance or preference.


This is also its limitation. Exactly as a pH meter does not tell you if a low or a high


Table 1: Examples of typical cosmetic problems.


 To differentiate, among several commercial lipsticks, their properties during the application phase and during the wear time.


 Differences in skin feel of a syndet, during and after its use, compared to a standard alkaline soap and to a combar.


 How the steeping procedure of alcoholic fragrances develops detectable differences in the perceived notes and which is the best olfactory method to identify them.


 If a group of hair conditioners, formulated with different types of cationics give similar performances onto the hair in terms of build-up, fly away, gloss, ease of wet and dry combing.


 If an oily insect repellent could support the claim ‘non oily’.  ‘Visible difference’ claims.  How a leading brand of body lotion could be matched completely.


pH is good for your skin, so the QDA does not specify if a sensorial variable will be well accepted by the consumers. But this limitation could be easily overcome by an accurate control of market competitors and by successive consumer tests, the preparation of which is made a lot easier with the results of panel’s findings.


Conclusions


Sensorial analysis was the missing tool between product development and the marketing phase. Its multiple features enable a thorough evaluation of a product’s performances, exactly as they are perceived by the final consumers. The real possibility of different depths of investigation are suitable for identifying any kind of formulation problems and for the analysis of consumers’ requirements. Moreover, it is a powerful instrument for communication among technical and marketing departments. Indeed, as it uses the same tools as consumers, it is


an efficient vocabulary of communication and a key to successful products.


PC


References 1 Murray JM, Delahunty CM, Baxter IA. Descriptive sensory analysis: past present and future. Food Res Int 2001; 34 (6): 461-71.


2 Hootman RC. Manual on descriptive analysis testing. ASTM manual series, 1992.


3 Peters D. Power, influence and group dynamics in sensory evaluation. Food Technol 1987.


3 Komanska H. Sequential monadic designs: some theoretical considerations. J Sens Stud 1990; 4.


4 Aust B et al. The descriptive analysis of skin care products by a trained panel of judges. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1987.


5 Bone B. The importance of consumer language in developing product concepts. Food Technol 1987.


6 Stone H, Dermott BJ, Sidel JL. The importance of sensory analysis for the evaluation of quality. Food Technol 1991.


7 Manual on sensory testing methods, ASTM Special Technical Publication 434.


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Beauty created by nature.


Supported by intelligence behind beauty April 2012 PERSONAL CARE 109


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