MARINE INGREDIENTS
product positioning. This is in sharp contrast with more widely available and replicable botanical sources which can be more challenging to protect and to maintain their prestige.
Intrinsic qualities From the first wave of marine microbe derived ingredients presented to the cosmetic market, it seems likely that t heir intrinsic characteristics will endear themselves to cosmetic formulators. Many of the ingredients derived from marine microbes have evolved to be deployed in an aqueous environment, to be active at low (and therefore cost effective) concentrations and to be active at a range of temperatures and pHs; features that should make their integration into existing or future cosmetic formulations relatively straightforward.7
Challenges
Despite the rich promise of marine microbe ingredients in the cosmetic field, it would be misleading to suggest that the translation of the ocean’s potential has been, or will be in the future, a straight- forward task. Converting marine microbes’ arsenal of biochemical diversity into cost- effective, safe and efficacious ingredients requires a series of technically challenging production, safety and activity screening/development steps each with aspects that are unique to this source. An ingredient’s development begins with the isolation of individual marine microbes from their complex native environment. Pioneering suppliers must carefully consider their sampling strategy to increase the probability of finding novel species with attractive characteristics, taking particular care to respect international collection treaties that govern commercial exploitation such as the Convention on Biological Diversity.19
Suppliers must then use their knowledge of marine microbe culturing and biochemical induction to expose each microbe’s rich evolutionary legacy and reveal the full range of biochemistry available before screening these materials for functional activities of interest. In parallel, the source organisms must be characterised alongside the candidate ingredient to demonstrate that they pose no risk of harm when applied to consumers’ skin or hair.
Satisfying the unique criteria of the cosmetic market imposes unique challenges on production and scale-up, requiring that no genetic modification techniques are employed and that only the most minimal processing techniques can be used in the extraction and purification of target ingredients.
68 PERSONAL CARE April 2012
Aquapharm’s facility in Oban, Scotland.
These challenges are likely to restrict the number of marine microbe ingredients that cosmetic formulators have at their immediate disposal although this will have the positive benefit of maintaining novelty and preventing the market from being swamped with ‘me-too’ products. It could also offer early adopters the opportunity to establish a strong market position.
Conclusion
Cosmetic ingredients derived from marine microbes, especially bacteria and fungi, hold great promise for the cosmetic industry. A first wave of ingredients has established a beach-head and the following generation appears set to deliver even more distinctive benefits to the consumer while satisfying their growing needs for ethical sourcing and environmental responsibility.
PC
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4 Fenical W, Jensen PR. Developing a new resource for drug discovery: marine actinomycete bacteria. Nat Chem Biol 2006; 2 (12): 666-73.
5 Sogin ML, Morrison HG, Huber JA, Mark Welch D, Huse SM, Neal PR, Arrieta JM, Herndl GJ. Microbial diversity in the deep sea and the underexplored ‘rare biosphere’. Proc Natl Acad Sci USA 2006; 103 (32): 12115-20.
6 Ausubel JH, Crist DT, Waggoner PE. First census of marine life 2010: highlights of a decade of discovery. Washington (DC): Census of Marine Life.
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19 Höft R. Convention on Biological Diversity. eLS 2008. Epub: 15 Jul 2008.
DOI: 10.1002/9780470015902.a0020474.
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