IN-COSMETICS
PreAct delivers natural phytosterols and vitamin E for improved protection in suncare formulations. For more information visit AAK at stand number V18. Silab will be at in-cosmetics 2012 promoting Vitagenyl, an adaptative response for a new anti-ageing strategy. Rich in α-glucans purified from peach tree leaves, Vitagenyl stimulates the expression of vitagenes, a group of genes involved in cell homeostasis that encode for stress- resistant proteins such as the HSP, thioredoxin and sirtuin-1. On volunteers, it has been demonstrated that the skin’s renewal is accelerated. Vitagenyl holds the power to regenerate and to revitalise the skin, allowing signs of ageing to be less pronounced.
Also on display will be Nachyline, which offers adhesion, cohesion and restructuring for an optimum barrier function Thanks to its richness in purified
Torulaspora delbrueckii peptides, Nachyline regulates epidermal homeostasis by controlling calcium inflow into keratinocytes via the nicotinic acetylcholine receptor (nAChR) pathway. Nachyline stimulates both the formation of adherens junctions and keratinocyte differentiation, thus reinforcing the cohesion and the stratification of the epidermis. Enabling the restoration of cellular organisation in the superficial skin layer, Nachyline provides a restructuring effect to the barrier function.
At in-cosmetics 2012 in Barcelona, Greentech, a French supplier of innovative cosmetic actives, will present new solutions for major skin problems such as age spots skin, dry skin and rosacea as well as a new anti-ageing innovation for the reshaping of face contour for mature skin. Find out more at stand X30. Contipro Biotech (formerly CPN) will be launching its anti-ageing concept at this year’s in-cosmetics. This concept, encapsulating Contipro’s 20 years’ experience and R&D results in cosmetic raw materials, places an emphasis on integral processing and systematic solutions. It gives partners, when selecting raw materials, the opportunity to concentrate on the close interdependence of external signs of skin ageing with the ageing mechanisms behind those visible signs.
In its pursuit of a comprehensive, conceptual anti-ageing range for customers, Contipro has developed two new products in its laboratories to complement the existing portfolio of raw materials. The first is the anti-inflammatory, Iuvacell Plus, used in soothing and calming products. The second is a purified phytocomplex with a high chlorogenic acid
36 PERSONAL CARE April 2012
To fight this genetically programmed inversion of the triangle of beauty, Codif Recherche et Nature has developed an extract of fertile bases of Undaria pinnatifida called Matrigenics.14 G. This new active ingredient is rich in wakamic ester. Its activity is to reactivate genes that have gone to sleep. Thanks to its richness in wakamic ester, Matrigenics.14 G activates 14 genes involved in the synthesis of the main components of extra cellular matrix: collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. In only 14 days Matrigenics.14 G restructures the dermis and reduces wrinkles’ volume and area, thus acting against inversion of the triangle of beauty and the accentuation of negative expressions.
Contipro Biotech.
content. This hyaluronan supporting agent provides the skin with significant hydration and anti-wrinkle regenerative benefits. Ichimaru Pharcos, who will be at stand E20, is a leading cosmetic ingredient company based in Japan. The company has obtained new efficacy data for Ougon Liquid B, a new approach to anti-pollution for skin care by way of inhibiting the AhR (Aryl Hydrocarbon Receptor) CYP1B1 signal caused by environmental pollution. The results indicate that Ougon Liquid B is expected to improve, for example, wrinkles, elasticity and reduction of pigmented spots. With age, negative expressions have a tendency to become set as the skin loses its elasticity, and positive expressions lose their structure as the skin starts to sag. While crow’s feet are considered as being smile wrinkles, forehead lines on the other hand harden the gaze. Deeper and deeper, nasal furrows with the appearance of circumoral wrinkles indicate bitterness. In young women, high cheekbones and a tapering chin form what is called a triangle of beauty. In older women, forehead lines and nasal furrows delineate an inverse triangle of beauty.
Natural ageing of the skin is the result
of a slow, progressive and genetically determined process. With age, the genes that code for the synthesis of the dermal structural molecules – elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid – enter a ‘sleeping phase’. The dermal matrix loses its structure and the skin loses its firmness, fixing in long term lines and accentuating wrinkles.
Grant Industries will be on stand K40 to promote their Gransil EP-9 ingredient, which is a concentrated and versatile emulsion of spherical elastomer powder. A controlled particle size of 2-4 microns offers enhanced aesthetics and improved formula dispersibility. Gransil EP-9 technology offers a number of advantages over other materials including cost performance and ease of use. Ideally suited for ‘instant’ soft focus effect formulations, Gransil EP-9’s performance comes from its concentrated elastomer content (60% polysilicone-11). This concentration provides an intensified wrinkle blurring property to lines and wrinkles – in addition to added cushion and sensory feel. Gransil EP-9 can be combined with active ingredients to offer both immediate and long term benefits in formulations. For water-based formulations Gransil EP-9 can simply be combined with the aqueous phase to create effective products.
Gransil EP-9 delivers an excellent
non-tacky, non-oily, smooth feel to all applications areas. The end result leaves a powdery after-feel on the applied area. The elastomer network also offers sebum absorption and control to soak up excess oils on the skin and T-Zone areas. Gransil EP-9 can be formulated into oil-
Mibelle Biochemistry.
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