April 2012
Vol 5 Issue 2
CONTENTS
NEWS DIGEST • QR code aids ingredient disclosure
FEATURES
• New European Cosmetics Regulation: are you ready? 11 • Anti-ageing solutions drive innovation in skin care • Supplier qualification for robust relationships
18 21
• The emerging Halal cosmetic and personal care market 24 • Barcelona show to focus on solar beauty
31
• Marine ingredients focus: a look at marine products 43 • Instant anti-wrinkle effect of a marine exopolysaccharide 47 • Effective ingredients from marine biotechnology • A natural active from the sea
• Next generation marine ingredients analysed • Marine derived ingredients for personal care • Searching for beauty under the sea
FORMULATIONS COVER STORY
• Cosmetic product safety: old friend or new foe? • Bio-based propanediol boosts preservative efficacy • Formulating mascaras with cold process waxes • Chitin nanoparticles as innovative delivery system • Improving sunscreen performance
53 58 63 70 75
145 Microalgae: the original cells
Because green and high technology is our way of life, GREENTECH and GREENSEA manage the specific tool of metabolic induction. This is an innovative microalgae culture technique, which finds its origin from mimicking the work of Nature. Actually, strains are capable of adapting themselves to environmental changes. So, this quite particular method has been developed in order to activate microalgae physiological readjustments towards over- expression or accumulation of high added value metabolites. Indeed, microalgae adapt their physiological metabolism by producing active molecules which are of particular interest to the cosmetics industry.
More precisely, the concept of metabolic induction is in the management and in the modification of culture parameters during the final production step. Then, these changes involve a reorientation of the microalgae metabolism and a secretion of specific molecules. In order to obtain an intense production of the required high added value metabolite, all parameters of culture can be changed and obviously controlled.
Recently, using this high technology of metabolic induction, GREENSEA and GREENTECH have developed a new active: SILIDINE®
to enhance
vascular tonicity thanks to its vasoconstrictive action. Indeed, SILIDINE®
is issued from the red
microalga Porphyridium cruentum, the culture of which has also been subjected to this method.
The clinical trial has demonstrated that SILIDINE® ,
at 3% into a formulation, significantly decreases by 19% rednesses on face and signs of rosacea, in comparison to the placebo. This study has shown the efficiency of SILIDINE®
on 86% of volunteers.
Also, it is important to mention that SILIDINE® is an active for vascular tonicity in general, and has also a particularly interesting action on heavy legs syndrome.
Please contact us at: GREENTECH
Biopôle Clermont-Limagne 63360 St Beauzire – France Tel: +33 (0) 4 73 33 99 00 Fax: +33 (0) 4 73 33 91 32 Email:
greentech@greentech.fr Website:
www.greentech.fr
April 2012 PERSONAL CARE 3
• Development via quantitative sensorial evaluation • A modern, multifunctional anti-dandruff agent • Silicone crosspolymers: customising sensory feel • Development considerations with maximum effect • Status of nanotechnology in sunscreens
81 85 91 95
101 107 111 115 121 129
• Cosmetogenomics and the mechanisms of efficacy 135 • Water-based nail polish innovation
139
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