MARINE INGREDIENTS
the formation of the corneal envelope. Stratifin is strongly induced by gamma radiation and other DNA-damaging agents (answer to an infection or inflammation).
Conclusion
HPDR is a natural, non toxic ingredient that can improve the UV protection of cosmetic products without the formation of toxic breakdown products. In addition to its free radical scavenging activity, the ingredient can rebuild cutaneaous damage by its power of hydration and anti dehydration.
Other advantages in cosmetic formulations Hydration and anti-dehydration (Figs. 4-6)
Owing to the rigidity of its double helix structure and its great length compared with its diameter, integral DNA has considerable water retention qualities. When this molecule diffuses through the cells, it carries a water volume 10,000 times greater than its own volume.7
cDNA-array gene expression on normal human keratinocytes,6
we recorded an
activation of several genes (AQP3, +652% –AQP8, +103% –SPTLC1, +777%). Integral DNA stimulates the aquaporins and serin palmitoyltransferase. Aquaporins are membrane water channels that play critical roles in controlling the water contents of cells (maintenance of hydrous balance). Serin palmitoyltransferase is an enzyme necessary for the synthesis of the ceramides phospholipides that play a ‘cement’ role between the horny layer corneocytes (barrier effect, avoids dehydration).
Antilipoperoxidant properties Its antilipoperoxidant properties (by OH• radical scavenging) can be beneficial in creams in order to protect against oxidative deleterious effects of creams containing polyunsaturated fatty acids (Figs. 7 & 8).8
Elastase inhibition Integral DNA is capable of inhibiting elastase, specifically the fibroblasts elastase in the human skin, which is largely responsible for the destruction of elastic fibres of the derma during the process of ageing (Fig. 9).9
Healing
The healing properties have been shown on corneal wounds and aspirin ulcers. In the cornea, integral DNA binds and heals wounds and explains its tolerance by the mucous membrane of the eye.10
Thus the
integral DNA molecule is an excellent cosmetic active ingredient for products that outline the eye. Further, integral DNA protects against the effects of aspirin
60 PERSONAL CARE April 2012 0 0 8 24 Figure 10: Fixation of heavy ions of cadmium. 32 Hours 48 56 72 40 HPDR batch No. 1124 20 250 µM 1 mg/mL 2 mg/mL 4 mg/mL 1 mg/mL 2 mg/mL 4 mg/mL
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Vitamin E (250 µM)
HPDR (mg/mL)
Vitamin E (250 µM) HPDR (mg/mL)+
Figure 8: Study of protective effect of HPDR against lipid peroxydation – inhibtion by association of vitamin E and HPDR in rat hepatocytes overloaded by iron.
Using
ulcers by again, binding and healing ulcer wounds. This can be a benefit after treatment with AHA or retinoic acid Also, some in vitro experiments show that integral DNA stimulates the collagen and proteoglycan synthesis which acts against the destructive effects of ageing in the skin.11,12
A stimulant activity towards
ciliary motricity of cells previously inhibited.13 Integral DNA’s polymerisation structure, as well as its physico-chemical properties, allow the binding of some environmental toxic heavy metals such as lead or cadmium found in cigarette smoke or other sources of pollution (Figs. 10 & 11).14 When it is applied to the skin, integral DNA reveals its pharmacological properties thanks to three mechanisms: A direct action on the cellular growth by the diffusion of metabolites resulting from its degradation.
An indirect signal effect sent by these metabolites fostering further cellular growth.
A passage of the integral DNA molecule through the upper layer of epidermis, thanks to the torsion capacities of
120 100 HPDR batch No. D193 80 60 120
■ Fibroblasty elastase ■ Pancreaty elastase
100
80
60
40
20
0
0 50 100 150 200 250 300 HPDR µg/mL
Figure 9: Inhibition of the kappa elastin hydrolysis (37˚C, 24 hours) – to prevent loss in cutaneous elastin.
Fixed quantity (Cadmium mg/g of HPDR)
Inhibition of production of free malonic dialdehyde (%)
Hydrolytic activity (%)
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