MARINE INGREDIENTS
compounds, but also could be behind some biosynthetic routes not found in terrestrial microorganisms, such as the production of long chain omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids by marine gamma proteobacteria.9 As mentioned before, near 30% of the compounds described in our collection have structural novelty. Although it is not clear how much of that novelty is associated to the marine origin of the producing microorganisms, the high chemical diversity of this collection of compounds is driven by the origin of the producing strains.
Screening
Detection of activities with potential application in the cosmetic industry is done through High Throughput screening in simple models, followed by in depth characterisation in more advanced screening systems. The initial assays have to be compatible with handling a large number of samples, as the higher the number the better probabilities of success we will have. In contrast, screening in skin models, such as skin explants, has to be limited in number, but it is much more informative in terms of the real potential of the bioactive compound.
Infinitec and Biomar have screened this collection for different activities relevant to the cosmetic industry, including antioxidant, whitening and antibacterial, and are in the process of establishing additional screening systems for selection of additional bioactive samples.
Topical antioxidants
In order to find new antioxidant compounds from our extracts collection, 58,900 crude extracts from marine microrganisms have been evaluated by the DPPH screening method, that allows the detection of reactive oxygen species scavenging compounds. 1.2% of the extracts showed good activity compared with the standard, vitamin E, making them potential candidates for cosmetic applications. A second round of characterisation in cell protection assays reduced the percentage by an additional 90%, leaving a selected group of extracts for further characterisation as cosmetic ingredients. These active samples are currently under evaluation for further development into cosmetic ingredients by Infinitec, and they are a good example of the great potential that a diverse collection of marine microorganisms brings into the search for novel cosmetic ingredients.
Topical skin whitening Tyrosinase inhibitors are important in cosmetic skin whitening because tyrosinase catalyses melanin synthesis. To find new whitening agents for cosmetics from
A Penicillium fungus, which produces a characteristic red exudate.
natural products produced by marine microorganisms, inhibition of tyrosinase activity has been tested in a subset of the collection, yielding 21 extracts that exhibited potent inhibitory effects on tyrosinase at non cytotoxic doses. This activity was measured as inhibition of melanin accumulation in an immortalised melanocyte cell line, and comparison with cytotoxicity was established with the same cells and primary cultures of fibroblasts and keratinocytes. As mentioned above, the next step is the characterisation of the activity and ‘cosmetic’ behaviour of these active extracts in skin explant models.
Topical antibacteria and antifungal treatments In the course of our antibacterial screening of thousands of crude extracts and hundreds of natural products obtained from marine microorganisms, we have isolated a new extract produced by a marine actinomycete with potent antibacterial activity against acne-causing bacteria, such as Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes. This extract has potent activity at doses that have no toxicity against primary cells from the skin or immortalised human cells, suggesting that it could be an effective ingredient in the treatment of acne. After screening against Malassezia
furfur of 500 crude extracts obtained from marine microorganisms, one extract was selected by its excellent activity against Malassezia furfur. The extract contained ovalicin, cholvalicin and small quantities of other related compounds responsible for anti-Malassezia activity. This extract contained terpenes with antifungal activity
against Malassezia yeasts that can be used in the manufacture of cosmetic formulations for the treatment of human skin diseases caused by these species, such as pityriasis versicolor, seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.
PC
References 1 Lordan S, Ross RP, Stanton C. Marine bioactives as functional food ingredients: potential to reduce the incidence of chronic diseases. Mar Drugs 2011; 9 (6): 1056-100.
2 Kim SK. Marine cosmeceuticals: trends and prospects. CRC Press 2011: 1-10.
3 Bhatnagar I, Kim SK. Immense essence of excellence: marine microbial bioactive compounds. Mar Drugs 2010; 8 (10): 2673-701.
4 Imhoff JF, Labes A, Wiese J. Bio-mining the microbial treasures of the ocean: new natural products. Biotechnol Adv 2011; 29 (5): 468-82.
5 Li JW, Vederas JC. Drug discovery and natural products: end of an era or an endless frontier? Science 2009; 325 (5937): 161-5.
6 Venter JC, Remington K Heidelberg JF et al. Environmental genome shotgun sequencing of the Sargasso Sea. Science 2004; 304 (5667): 66-74.
7 Kennedy J, O´Leary ND, Kiran GS et al. Functional metagenomic strategies for the discovery of novel enzymes and biosurfactants with biotechnological applications from marine ecosystems. J Appl Microbiol 2011; 111 (4): 787-99.
8 Sobecky PA, Hazen TH. Horizontal gene transfer and mobile genetic elements in marine systems. Methods Mol Biol 2009; 532: 435-53
9 Shulse CN, Allen EE. Widspread occurrence of secondary lipid biosynthesis potential in microbial lineages. PLoS One 2011; 6 (5): e20146.
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