MARINE INGREDIENTS Todd Kenworth – Javenech, France
A natural active from the sea
Highly Polymerised DeoxyRibonucleotide (HPDR) or DNA is a molecule well known to biologists since the fundamental works of Watson and Crick and continues to attract a lot of attention. Its structure is that of a natural polymer of which the basic element (which can sometimes be improperly called DNA within the cosmetic industry) is the association of three molecules: phosphorous, deoxyribose and a nucleic base (adenine or thymine or cytosine or guanine), which then form a nucleotide. The nucleotides in a chain constitute a long molecule, where the repetition of the various motifs is at the origin of the genetic code. This is now well documented and understood. The natural macromolecule is in reality formed by two chains coiled in the classic way of the double helix of which Watson and Crick described. This particularity brings into existence loose links called ‘hydrogen bonds’, between the complementary bases [Adenine (A) – Thymine (T) – Guanine (G) – Cytosine (C)] and are links susceptible to coming apart and joining in natural biological conditions.
Only this tertiary spatial structure defines this natural polymer and therefore its biological characteristics, in opposition to the basic chemical units or monomers which are nucleotides alone or associated in a short chain. The industrial production of such a DNA, (called HPDR or integral
4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0
■ t = 6 hours ■ t = 0 hours
Its origin (derived from salmon spermatozoa).
Its particular extraction method. Its perfectly defined physico-chemical properties.
nm 200 220 240 260 280 300 320
Figure 1: UV spectrums of HPDR solution between 200 nm and 300 nm before and after over four hours of UV rays exposure.
DNA) is the preliminary indispensable condition for all biological and therapeutic uses of this molecule. In effect, the practical research and development of the method of extraction, specific to the biological raw material selection (salmon milt), allows for the integral preservation of the molecular structure.
The HPDR (now referred to as integral DNA in this article), is characterised by:
3.6 3.2 2.8 2.6 Average standard (FDA)
Control cream Control cream +0.4% HPDR
Figure 2: Sun protection index evalution. 58
Control cream +0.8% HPDR
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
†
Its fibrous appearance is a characteristic of the double helix super organisation of the biopolymer. Integral DNA extraction is done by non-denaturing techniques allowing perfect protection of its superstructure and so, preserving its physiological activity. The biological extracts made with non- polymerised nucleotides cannot, under any circumstances, lay claim to the multiple biological functions of integral DNA. We obtain DNA according to strictly controlled conditions and therefore the molecule complies with precise physico- chemical criterion which ensures that it does not contain inactive depolymerised parts.
Javenech’s research centre, alongside the pharmaceutical industry has been working on this technique for many years. It has analytical, toxico-pharmacological and clinical files which may be required to obtain government approvals for use in finished products.
The results of the toxicological studies allow for very safe use. At last, some of the acknowledged pharmacological and clinical properties can be of interest to the cosmetic industry.
Inhibition corresponded to (1-A HPDR/AControl). 100%, where A is the ESR intensity calculated by double integration of the low field line.
78 72 65 58
85
25 0.4 0.8 1.2 1.6 HPDR concentration (mg/mL) Figure 3: HPDR inhibition of free radical formation. PERSONAL CARE April 2012 2.0 2.4
Sun protection index
Inhibition % of DMPO-OH· signal†
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