Pierre-Yves Morvan, Romuald Vallée – Codif International, France MARINE INGREDIENTS
Instant anti-wrinkle effect of a marine exopolysaccharide
a
3: Area = 1315330.89 px2 4: Area = 1015777.26 px2
b
15: Area = 1439595.59 px2 16: Area = 525766.65 px2
Figure 1: Effect of EPS Seafill on the lattice contraction after 52 hours – a) non treated (1% FCS) and b) treated with 1% FCS +0.2% EPS Seafill.
Skin ageing is a complex phenomenon involving two simultaneously occurring processes: intrinsic ageing, known as chronological ageing, which is genetically determined, and extrinsic ageing which is due to environmental factors such as chronic sun exposure, known as photoageing. Chronologically aged and photoaged skin share important molecular features including decreased proliferative capacity of skin-derived cells, decreased matrix synthesis in the dermis associated with an increased expression of enzymes that degrade the collagenous matrix, increased inflammatory process and oxidative stress.1,2,3 With time, the cellular renewal rate decreases, as does the effectiveness of protection systems. Collagen and elastin synthesis diminishes markedly with age: ageing skin contains fewer collagen and elastic fibres. The epidermis and dermis become atrophic and thin.4
As the skin has a direct interface with the environment, it is exposed to many environmental aggressions. It cannot avoid the phenomenon of ageing, and is subject to inevitable changes.
The aim of the present study was to evaluate the anti-ageing properties of a solution containing 1% of a purified and completely sequenced marine exopolysaccharide (named EPS Seafill), using in vitro tests on normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) in monolayer (2D cellular model) and in collagen lattices (3D cellular model) by immuno- fluorescence and in vivo tests using fringe projection.
The 3D model is an in vitro three- dimensional reconstituted dermis, with a
120 100 80 60 40 20 0
0
population of fibroblasts synthesising and interacting with a collagen fibre network. Frei V et al. demonstrated that the recent development of two three-dimensional culture systems, in which the cells develop within a porous structure reproducing the extracellular matrix of the human dermis, is a way of reproducing in vivo conditions and demonstrating the biological effects of anti-ageing compounds.3
It is used to
assess the effect of an active cosmetic ingredient on the collagen network more realistically than with cellular cultures.5
● 1% FCS ● 1% FCS +TGFβ ● 1% FCS + 0.02% EPS Seafill ● 1% FCS + 0.2% EPS Seafill
1020 30 Time (hours) Figure 2: Evolution of the lattice contraction over time. April 2012 PERSONAL CARE 47 40 5060
Lattice diameter (%)
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