HAIR CARE 0 –5
–10 –15 –20 –25 –30
Placebo –6% 0 –25%
2.0% Dermasoft decalact
–24%
0.75% piroctone olamine
Figure 4: Reduction of dandruff scales after 28 days treatment. Assessment by removal of corneocytes from hair by 1 minute combing. Both treatments with piroctone olamine and Dermosoft decalact show comparable, significant reduction of dandruff after 28 days.
finished product nor a decomposition of the active following exposure to daylight. But there is more than the mere lack of disadvantages to this product: the natural anti-dandruff active aids in foaming and stabilises the foam produced by other surfactants. Figure 3 shows the foaming of SLES at 1% in water compared to the natural anti-dandruff active at the same concentration. The natural anti-dandruff active alone as well as the mixture of the natural anti-dandruff active and SLES shows a better foam stability as shown after 1, 2 and 5 minutes.
Thus, regarding the additional benefits in common hair care formulations this natural ingredient truly deserves its classification as a multifunctional anti-dandruff agent.
In vivo reduction of dandruff compared to piroctone olamine Coming back to the primary function of the natural anti-dandruff active, it was also tested in a clinical study concerning its ability to reduce dandruff in vivo. Three formulations were prepared for this study,
3
■ Day 0 ■ After 4 weeks 2.4
2 2.3 2.2 1.9 1
–10 –20 –30 –40 –50
Placebo -2%
–36% –40%
2.0% Dermasoft decalact
0.75% piroctone olamine
Figure 5: Reduction of dandruff scales after 28 days treatment. Assessment by placement of D-squame on scalp and subsequent analysis by digital photography/Fotofinder Dermoscope software. Both treatments with piroctone olamine and Dermosoft decalact show comparable, significant reduction of dandruff after 28 days.
one placebo as a control without any anti- dandruff active, one shampoo with 0.75% piroctone olamine and the last containing 2.0% of the natural anti-dandruff active (having approximately the same costs as piroctone olamine at 0.75%). For this study 60 individuals with dandruff were selected and divided into three groups of 20 each. The criteria for selecting the volunteers were an age between 18 and 60 years for both females and males, and a presence of dandruff with level 2-3 (moderate to severe dandruff according to the four-point dermatological scale).
These groups were treated with:
A placebo shampoo (as control group). The same shampoo base with 0.75% piroctone olamine.
The same shampoo base with 2% the natural anti-dandruff active.
Two weeks prior to start the first evaluation, all subjects were asked to stop using any shampoo other than a neutral (placebo) shampoo provided by the test institute. All individuals presented themselves at the lab and a first evaluation of the
dandruff was made before starting treatment with the different products. The following parameters were tested: Total weight of dandruff scales removed after one minute of combing.
Reduction of number of corneocyte clusters larger than 0.5 mm2
.
Optical assessment by dermatologist using the four-point scale for dandruff.
After the first evaluation before starting the treatment, all individuals had to use the provided shampoos during a period of 28 days at least three times a week. At the end of the 28-day study period all individuals presented themselves in the laboratory again to evaluate the result of the treatment by using the same methods as at the beginning of the treatment. The average change of dandruff for the three groups is shown in Figures 4 to 6. Also the evaluation by a dermatologist shows a slightly better result for the natural anti-dandruff active (reduction by 0.4 points) compared to piroctone olamine (reduction by 0.3 points). All original study results are available upon request.
2.3 1.9 0 Placebo Piroctone olamine Dermasoft decalact
Figure 6: Reduction of dandruff score after 28 day treatment. Optical assessment by dermatologist, average reduction shown after evaluation according to 4-point dermatological scale (0 = absent/no dandruff scales; 1 = mild a few isolated scales of little/medium size; 2 = moderate/many isolated scales of little/medium size or some cluster of scales; 3 = severe/many clusters of scales).
Conclusion With the full set of in vitro data, results of clinical test and application data it is clearly demonstrated that Dermosoft decalact offers equal dandruff reducing efficacy compared to benchmark products of petrochemical origin, a fast and efficient reduction of dandruff causing Malassezia furfur in vitro and further technical benefits like transparency and foam boosting in shampoos. With a cost-effective and high performing natural active like Dermosoft decalact there is no need to accept the disadvantages of established actives that were innovations when originally launched more than 30 or even 80 years ago like piroctone olamine or Zn-pyrithione respectively.
PC April 2012 PERSONAL CARE 113
4-point scale
Percentage
Percentage
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