Audrey Ameline – Interpolymer Sàrl, France Joseph J. Cincotta – Interpolymer Corp., US
COLOUR COSMETICS
Water-based nail polish innovation
Nail polish has become a true fashion accessory and to some degree an art form. It is a beauty product that attracts consumers with very affordable prices even in rough economic times. In the last few years, beauty services have been challenged by at-home alternatives. For example, many consumers have opted to adorn their nails at home instead of getting them done in a professional nail salon. As a result, nail polish has been among the fastest growing categories in global colour cosmetics sales and has registered more than 7% growth in 2010, according to Euromonitor international. Thanks to a wide array of novel colorants and pigments, manufacturers can quickly evolve and expand their nail colour palettes to follow the most current fashion trends as well as create new ones. Colour trends are very different depending on country or cultures. However the buying criteria remain the same for all consumers: ease of application, quick drying, gloss, density of the colour and, of course, durability.
Properties and composition of standard nail polish A nail polish is defined as a pigmented coating applied to human fingernails or toenails to decorate and/or protect the nail plate. A cosmetically acceptable nail polish should have the following properties: Good levelling for an easy application. Good adhesion in order to provide long lasting results.
Quick drying or film formation. Bright and vivid colour. High gloss. High coverage. Homogeneity throughout film. Sufficient elasticity to be able to follow the nails’ curves without cracking.
Suitable hardness to resista shock and minimise chipping.
Other crucial qualities include: Good water resistance: women want to be able to wash their hands several times without reapplying their polish.
ABSTRACT
Syntran PC5620 is an aqueous acrylic polymer dispersion specifically designed for the formulation of water-based nail polishes. When properly formulated this polymer exhibits very interesting properties such as quick dry time, high gloss, excellent adhesion, durability and wear properties. These properties are crucial in developing an effective ‘water-based’ nail polish able to compete against commercially acceptable ‘solvent-based’ nail polishes.
Stability of the formulation: a too quick or too high sedimentation of the product could be prejudicial for the success of a product.
The end product should be safe and innocuous for the consumer.
Nails should recover their original appearance after removing the polish without staining nail plate.
As in all categories of cosmetic products there is no single formula for nail polish. Nevertheless, the nail care market is dominated by the so-called ‘solvent- based’ nail polish (non-aqueous). The majority of these products are based on typical components including: film-forming agents, resins, plasticisers, solvents, pigments and thixotropic agents. The exact formulation of a nail polish depends on choices made by formulators in the research and development phase. The key ingredient of a nail polish is the film-forming agent. The main film-forming agent used today in ‘solvent-based’ nail polish is nitrocellulose.
Nitrocellulose provides mechanical and chemical resistance to the nail polish, however, a nitrocellulose film alone is too brittle and has poor adhesion to the nail surface. A resin is typically combined with nitrocellulose to provide adherence at the surface of the nail. Plasticisers are also added to the formulation to give elasticity and flexibility to the film. These chemicals
April 2012 PERSONAL CARE 139
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152