MARINE INGREDIENTS
quantities of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and help counteract the effects of carbon dioxide on global warming.11 They have also been heralded as the next big thing in green power as micro algae, such as Botryococcus braunii, will produce triterpene oil comparable in hydrocarbon content to petroleum. The cosmetic industry is fortunate to have suppliers who specialise in culturing strains of microalgae, which contain actives with proven cosmetic benefits. For example, Soliance in their Brittany laboratories culture Phaeodactylum tricornutum, which is typically found in Mediterranean coastal waters. Their Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract (Depollutine) has been shown to prevent ICAMs release from keratinocytes, so it is a useful active for stressed skin. Hence their trade name, Depollutine, which suggests its usefulness in products designed for people who live in cities and more polluted atmospheres. It is however very useful for all of us who live stressful lives. Skeletonema costatum is another coastal water microalgae that is being cultured in Brittany. It has a unique composition and is especially rich in essential amino acids. Skeletonema costatum extracts (Grevilline and Costalene) inhibit two key mediators to limit inflammation and reduce erythema.12 They also encourage strong intercellular junctions and are sources of beneficial omega-3 oils.16
Skeletonema costatum
extract has been recommended for products designed to counteract the painful effects of sunburn and anti-ageing.
Microalgae can also help moisturising
the skin. Porphyridium cruentum extract (Porphyraline) is made from cultured red micro algae. It contains moisturising polysaccharides similar to human GAG, which create a protective coating. In nature, part of the polysaccharide dissolves in seawater and increases the local viscosity to protect the microalgae. Porphyridium cruentum is cultured in marine spring water, which is rich in various essential minerals.13 Phaeodactylum tricornutum, mono- cellular micro-algae, belonging to the Diatomophyceae is widely found in coastal waters of the Mediterranean, Brittany, Baltic and Caribbean. Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract (Megassine) has been shown to contain a specific poly unsaturated fatty acid as well as being a powerful antioxidant.14
It therefore has anti-ageing
properties and its proteins are recognised as major targets for oxidative damage, like DNA and lipids. Chronological ageing and photo-ageing are mediated by depleted antioxidant enzyme expression leading to accumulation of harmful oxidised proteins and cellular dysfunction.5
Phaeodactylum tricornutum increases proteasome activity,
make soft beads, which look especially attractive in toiletries. These beads have more practical uses in other industries. For example they are used in biotechnology as tiny bioreactors. A bead can be easily made to contain living cells or enzymes by simply letting drops of alginate solution (containing cells or enzymes) fall into a solution of cross-linking calcium salts. These resulting beads are robust and have large surface areas, which makes them perfect supports for bioreactions. They can be easily swirled around a fluid filled fermenter tank and once a process is over, it is easy to drain away the media and recover the beads.
Ascophyllum nodosum.
which are responsible for the removal of damaging protein oxidation products and help maintain protein turnover. This is especially important when skin is subjected to high UV irradiation.15
Seaweed
Extracts made from the many different types of seaweed and simpler algae are also readily available as effective actives. Active Concepts SRL supply ABS Alg moist Eau, which is a popular moisturising seaweed extract. Wakamine from Soliance, is a brown seaweed extract (Undaria pinnatifida). This golden-brown kelp from the Laminaria family grows in fairly protected waters such as bays and harbours. It is widely used in Japan where it is traditionally added to miso soup (under the ‘Wakame’ name) and in China (as ‘Qundai-cai’).5
Fermenting seaweeds Fermentation is an all natural process that can be used to create special ‘new’ natural materials just as grape juice can be transformed into wine or vinegar. One of the industry’s most prestigious products, Crème De La Mer, claims to owe its efficacy to a highly potent fermented ‘Miracle Broth’ and its transformed ingredients - sea kelp, calcium, magnesium, potassium, iron, lecithin, vitamins C, E and B12
, plus citrus, Small producers of seaweeds
such as Roaring Water Bay Seaweed Cooperative Society and Cleggan Seaweeds in Ireland can be found throughout the world. Their main products tend to be gelling agents such as carrageenan, alginates, agar or agarose, all of which are extracted from seaweed. These polymers have been used for thousands of years in foods because they are very safe and excellent at controlling rheology and adding richness and ‘body’ to all types of formulas. They are also useful polymers for improving stability, especially to help formulas survive freeze-thawing. Interestingly, they can give creams and lotions an attractive shine to their outer surfaces. These marine polymers are excellent moisturisers. They can also be the backbone of face masks. FMC Biopolymers has an alginate powder blend (Protanal FM 6130) that combines, at the optimum ratios, diatomaceous earth with alginates and calcium salts to make a quick setting face mask base. This base can be used to carry a variety of anhydrous active ingredients. Alginates are also used to
eucalyptus, wheat germ, alfalfa and sunflower oils. The process can take 3-4 months to complete, but fermented seaweed still retains much of its polymer structure so gives ‘slip’, ‘body’, and acts as an excellent moisturiser. Fermentation improves bioavailability and by removing less active, fermentable elements, brings out actives, for example kelp has natural anti-microbial properties. The ‘fermenting microbes’ may synthesise essential fatty acids and vitamins so that the whole process can be thought of as ‘enriching’ a well-known marine active. Companies such as Active Concepts LLC offer a range of fermented products including seaweed.
Sponges and coral The greatest success stories for marine actives in the pharmaceutical industry come from the shallower regions of the sea. The most profitable marine-derived drugs include the anti-viral acyclovir and its relative zidothymidine (AZT), which is used to delay development of AIDS, along with the anti-cancer drug, Ara-C. These drugs owe their existence to materials originally isolated from marine sponges. In the personal care industry, an extract made from Caribbean sea whip (soft coral) Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae has been the active ingredient in a few skin care products for a number of years. The commercially available cosmetic grade extract is a partially purified extract of Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae that contains pseudopterosins (diterpene- pentoseglycosides), which modify the inflammatory arachidonic acid cascade and
April 2012 PERSONAL CARE 71
www.en.wikipedia.org
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