ACTIVES
Figure 2: Inflammation and microvessels at T0 (left), and after treatment with Chromocare.
are anchored into the surrounding matrix is very important for the subsequent functionality of the cell. If there is only an indication that the cell function is stimulated this still does not mean that efficacy can be perceived at a macroscopic level. The Nobel Prize for medicine in 2009 was given to three researchers who focused their work on the telomeres, i.e. the cells’ biological clock, and demonstrated their importance for the cell’s life cycle. Normal body cells die off after a specific period of time. The period of time depends on the length and condition of the telomeres. Skin cells are those most exposed to aggressive elements. The telomeres also suffer here. They become prematurely damaged and their lifetime is shortened. A protective and repair mechanism for this sensitive, yet key element of the cell’s genetic material has been demonstrated using the Renovage active substance in a gene expression study. A cell culture study carried out over several months showed a strengthening of the protective and maintenance function on the telomeres and the lifetime of the cells. In vivo, the activity showed itself in a generally more attractive skin quality. Parameters such as moisture content, micro-relief, pigment spots and redness, dilation of the pores and firmness, all showed significant improvement. Flawless skin with no unevenness or pigmentation problems is the wish of all consumers. The Chromocare active helps to produce a more even complexion by acting on the skin’s three chromophores – collagen, haemoglobin and melanin. Their formation is significantly influenced by inflammation processes in the skin. In the DNA array, valuable indications are obtained on the anti-inflammatory and anti- oxidative properties of two plant extracts which it contains, namely Siegesbeckia orientalis and Rabdosia rubescens. At the same time a positive action was observed on the matrix regeneration.
136 PERSONAL CARE April 2012
Indeed, in vitro data from research into the cell metabolism confirm a reduction of melanin and haemoglobin (Fig. 2) and an increase in the matrix proteins, inflammation-caused redness decreased. The panel study finally confirmed the smoothing action on the complexion which produced a more even appearance. The active mechanism of Revidrate was very precisely defined using a gene activation profile in relation to keratinocytes. The profile showed that the synthesis of filaggrin – a basic molecule in the Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) – was stimulated (Fig. 3). It was also seen that the enzymes needed for NMF formation actually increased. Because the keratinocyte maturity was stimulated so that the components of the intercellular substance and corneocyte cell casing were increased, an extensive range of action was produced: on the one hand the skin’s own moisture reservoir function was increased and on the other hand the skin’s mechanical and physical protective barriers were reinforced in order to optimise the moisture content.
In application studies, it was shown that even some time after the use of the active cream was stopped the action continued. One week after the last application, the moisture level in the upper and deeper epidermis was still clearly higher than before the applications started. A very interesting indication of the synthesis performance of the keratinocytes has been supplied by the gene activation study on the Subliskin active substance. Only a few years ago it was known that hyaluronic acid is not only formed in the dermal fibroblasts but also in the keratinocytes, and helps to regulate the moisture level in the deeper layers of the epidermis. The glycokines of this active – which are by a special process biomimetically obtained oligosaccharides – are able to stimulate the hyaluronic acid production of the keratinocytes. Furthermore, the study confirms the results of the metabolomics with regard to the laminin-5 and collagen-IV stimulation. Both of these anchoring proteins are important binding elements between the dermis and the epidermis, and are
Figure 3: Synthesis of filaggrin – with placebo (left), and with Revidrate.
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