COLOUR COSMETICS Formulation 1: Water-based acrylic nail polishes. %W/W INCI designation Phase A
Syntran PC56203 Phase B
Benzoflex 9-881 Dowanol DPM2 Dowanol PnB2 Butylene glycol Dowanol TPM2 Dowanol DPnP
Syntran KL219-CG3 Total
Styrene/Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer
Dipropylene Glycol Dibenzoate Dipropylene Glycol Methyl Ether Propylene glycol N-butyl Ether Butylene Glycol
Tripropylene Glycol Methyl Ether Dipropylene Glycol N-propyl Ether Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer
92.000 2.400 4.400
3.750 2.625
2.325 3.333 0.930
1.200 100.00
pH:7.0-8.0 Suppliers: 1 Genovique 2 Dow 3 Interpolymer
new acrylic polymer dispersion exhibits the quickest drying time: the drying time is approximately twice as fast as the other water-based formulations as you can see in Figure 1. The use of the new acrylic polymer dispersion improves the quality of water-based nail polishes. If we compare the formulation containing the new acrylic polymer dispersion against the solvent-based, the drying time of the solvent-based nail polish is obviously faster but the dry-to-touch feeling of the water-based formulation is still quite impressive. This difference comes mainly from different drying patterns. In a water-based formulation the solvent dries from the top down, while the solvent- based nail polish dries from the bottom up. Also in the water-based formulation some of the water is absorbed into the fingernails.
Hardness
A second test was performed to evaluate the hardness of the film. The measure of hardness can give information about the wear resistance of the product. A soft coating is more susceptible to abrasion, scratching, and other mechanical attacks than a hard coating. A common method to measure the hardness is the Sward hardness test. This test is based on the principle that the amplitude of oscillation of the rocking device between two definite angles decreases more rapidly the softer the surface of a coating on which the test is performed.
The products with a thickness of 150 µm were applied on a glass support under controlled humidity and temperature and the hardness over a period of 72 hours was measured with the sward-type
142 PERSONAL CARE April 2012
hardness rocker. One can easily measure the number of oscillations, the more oscillations that occurs the harder the film. The results given in Figure 2 show that the film obtained with the formulation containing the new acrylic polymer dispersion is harder than the film obtained with the other water-based references. Results also highlight that the hardness of the film containing the new acrylic polymer dispersion is very close to the hardness of the film obtained with the solvent-based formulation. Therefore, the new acrylic polymer dispersion will provide excellent durability and wear resistance to nail polish formulation.
Gloss
Solvent-based products are highly appreciated for different qualities among which is their glossy appearance. The last study allowed us to evaluate the gloss of the formulation containing the new acrylic polymer dispersion against solvent-based nail polish. For each product a film of 40 µm was applied on the black portion of Leneta cards (paper with a sealer). The gloss was measured with a glossmeter which directs a light at a specific angle to the test surface and simultaneously measures the amount of reflection. The gloss was evaluated with a 20˚ glossmeter after the application of one coat. The 60˚ angle is normally used as a reference angle for the gloss measurement but because of the high gloss of the coatings the 20˚ angle is more appropriate in this study. The 20˚ angle is more sensitive to haze effects that affect the appearance of the surface. We noticed that the gloss of the film obtained with the water-based formulation
containing the new acrylic polymer dispersion is higher than the gloss of the film obtained with the solvent-based reference after the application of one coat.
Conclusion Laboratory testing has shown that formulations containing the new acrylic polymer dispersion, Syntran PC5620, exhibit quicker drying time and superior wear and hardness compared to competitive water based nail polishes. Moreover our test formulation provides superior initial gloss compared to competitive water-based and solvent-based benchmarks. In the light of these results, it can be concluded that the Syntran PC5620 will give a boost to the water-based nail polish market. Thanks to its unique properties, the product will allow the creative formulator new freedoms with regard to developing nail treatments and polishes, as well as, the ability to develop safe, eco-friendly, yet effective alternatives to solvent-based nail polishes.
PC
References 1
www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nail_polish 2 Nail Polish. Chem Eng News 2008; 86 (32): 42. 3 Schlager N. How products are made: An illustrated guide to product manufacturing – Nail polish 1994; 1: 297.
4 Nail polish experiences no crisis! Expression Cosmétique 2011; 8: 14.
5 Martini MC, Peyrefitte G. Esthétique-Cosmétique CAP, BP, BTS – Tome 2, Cosmétologie. Paris: Elsevier Masson, 2002.
6 The birth of a floor polish film. Interpolymer Advances, 1999. (
www.tinyurl.com/83f6a7h).
7 Standard test methods. ASTM International (
www.astm.org).
1.125 100.00 1.162 100.00
2.750 1.925 0.825
100.00
Procedure: Add phase A to batch tank. Begin appropriate agitation. In a separate vessel, premix phase B ingredients with appropriate agitation. Slowly add phase B ingredients to phase A with constant agitation. Stir for 30 minutes and avoid aeration.
92.500 92.250 94.500 F-91-141B F-92-011B F-92-001D F-92-016B
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152