MARINE INGREDIENTS Encrusting soft coral.
and as antioxidants in order to prolong shelf-life. There is strong market demand for new, natural preservatives driven by the strong desire to replace synthetic, artificial preservatives, such as parabens and formaldehyde, with effective, natural sourced alternatives.18
Harnessing the rich evolutionary legacy of their source microbes, pioneering suppliers have identified a significant number of natural marine products with bacteriostatic and/or antimicrobial properties and are investigating their utility as novel cosmetic preservative ingredients. Typically, in the first instance, these will be presented as extract-based ingredients with alternative primary functions but with a secondary preservative functionality. Such ingredients could reach the market within 2-3 years as they would not require the level of testing required for an addition to the Annex V permitted list. Consequently products containing such ingredients could be labelled ‘preservative-free’. Antimicrobial ingredients have also shown activity against microbial species known to have undesirable effects on the skin or hair, such as Malassezia sp. and Corynebacterium xerosis, and are being investigated as candidate actives to be included in products claiming anti-dandruff, anti-acne or deodorant properties.
General credentials Having established that marine microbe ingredients can display attractive functionalities, what general features can cosmetic developers expect from the next generation?
Sustainability
Marine microbe ingredients can make a genuine claim to impeccable sustainability credentials. Unlike rare botanical ingredients, marine microbe ingredients do not require repeated harvesting from environmentally sensitive locations: the
initial collection of sample materials has low to zero impact on their native ecosystem. This also contrasts strongly with other marine ingredients, such as fish oils and collagens, where collection is often quickly associated with a negative impact on native populations greatly restricting their appeal to consumers and their availability to the mass market. Following characterisation, typical ingredients from marine microbes can be consistently produced at large scale via sustainable fermentation-based production processes that tap into centuries old industrial brewing expertise. Sederma’s Venuceane product, for instance, is produced at 30,000 L scale in stirred tank bioreactors. Provided that minimal processing techniques are employed, ingredients could be eligible for organic certification and presentation. What is more, production sites, based on fermentation, offer the possibility of being located close to end-users thus minimising the potential carbon footprint associated with the supply chain.
In addition, the natural fermentation of marine microbes also enables producers to offer high quality ingredients that can be guaranteed to be free from the risk of contamination from environmentally derived biological and chemical pollutants that afflict ingredients from other sources and offers an approach that could reduce the personal care market’s current dependence on petroleum and associated fossil fuels as a source of ingredients.
Competitive protection
In a further boon for developers, novel ingredients derived from marine microbes can also be tightly controlled via production strain protection and strong and defensible patents on novel active components which could offer cosmetic developers the opportunity to extend final product lifecycles and, potentially, premiumise
April 2012 PERSONAL CARE 67
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