MARINE INGREDIENTS
glycosides originally extracted from the Caribbean sea whip Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae and adopted by Estée Lauder as a key ingredient in its Resilience range of skin lotions.7
The expensive and time
intensive hand harvesting of the sea fans presented unique difficulties that threatened the ability of suppliers to sustainably produce enough material to satisfy demand. Fortunately, developers were
subsequently presented with an alternative sourcing option when it was discovered that, like many biologically active natural products derived from larger invertebrate species, a symbiotic marine microbe was found to be the ‘real’ source of pseudopterosin.8
Efforts to isolate and
culture this microbe to produce pseudopterosin are now well established offering a sustainable and economic solution through fermentation.9 However, although natural mimics of existing cosmetic ingredients do have attractions, the larger potential for marine microbe ingredients resides in the deep well of their novelty and its translation into innovative ingredients that can deliver multiple cosmetic benefits. Many of the first wave of marine microbe derived products to hit cosmetic shelves have succeeded in doing this by drawing their unique benefits from microalgae-derived ingredients, such as Solazyme’s Alguronic Acid (supporting their own Algenist range based on these ingredients) and Unipex’s blue-green algal extract, Lamablue. This has led to wider adoption such as Clarins use of extracts from the algae Durvillea antarctica in its Extra Firming Day Cream. This recent prominence of micro-algae derived ingredients may be due to their relative commercial success in the nutraceutical field and the scale of the investment placed in exploring their potential as a source of novel biofuels which has provided suppliers with the know-how and supporting capital to develop robust supply chains.
Coral.
Next wave of marine ingredients However, by lending themselves to larger scale production and harbouring an even greater biodiversity and thus a wider breadth of potential bio-actives than their micro-algae compatriots, it is marine bacteria and fungi that can really distinguish themselves and look more likely to be the source of the next wave of innovative marine ingredients that hit the cosmetic marketplace.
A combination of novel microbological techniques and bio-processing technologies has begun to unlock this particular marine microbial treasure chest and to make it accessible to cosmetic developers and consumers. Pioneering suppliers include Aquapharm, Pierre Fabre and Sederma, the latter of whom developed and launched Venuceane, an ingredient developed for skin protection that includes a free radical-scavenging enzyme originally discovered in the extremophile bacterium Thermus thermophilus.10
Selection pressure translated into novel functionalities and bio-activities Just how are the leading microbial ingredients distinguishing themselves and what will future ingredients from these sources bring to the cosmetic shelves?
Anti-ageing – anti-inflammatory ingredients
Ingredients with anti-inflammatory properties are in demand to bring a variety of anti-ageing benefits to consumers. Although marine organisms have provided a large proportion of the natural anti- inflammatory molecules discovered in recent years, many of these have yet to be translated into ingredients that can be used in the cosmetic industry.11
Recent examples
of new anti-inflammatory marine compounds include the halipeptins, hymenamide C, petrosaspongiolide and scytonemin.
Pioneering suppliers, however, are tapping into this rich heritage and are actively developing a selection of ingredients derived from marine microbes that exhibit anti-inflammatory effects, particularly those that inhibit validated targets in vitro, such as NF-κB or specific cytokines (or combinations of cytokines) known to be involved in pro-inflammatory responses.12
These ingredients will offer
consumers benefits that include prevention and alleviation of skin irritation and redness.
Anti-ageing – exopolysaccharides Marine microbes synthesise a wide spectrum of multifunctional polysaccharides including intracellular polysaccharides, structural polysaccharides and exopolysaccharides (EPS). There is growing appreciation of the diversity of marine microbial EPS and this has translated into increased interest in their potential for cosmetic application.
Sponge.
Microbial EPS are high-molecular-weight polymers that are generally composed of sugar residues in combination with non- carbohydrate substituents (such as acetate, pyruvate, succinate, and phosphate). EPS-producing marine bacteria have been found to be widely distributed in the ocean, and can be found in different samples from seawater, sediment and sea- ice and from the surface or interior of
April 2012 PERSONAL CARE 65
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