MARINE INGREDIENTS
■ Cream containing 0.01% hyaluronic acid ■ Cream containing 0.1% pseudoalteromonas expolysaccharides
30 25 20 15 10 5 0
58.5%
40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0
7 hours 24 hours
Figure 2: Average values of hydration improvements after 7 and 24 hours of the first application of the gels.
only relevant sources for cosmetic researchers; we should also look into extreme cold environments. In fact, in recent years many microbiologists have focused their attention on the identification of Antarctic bacterial isolates. For almost six months a year, Antarctica does not receive solar energy, and when it does, it is not quantitatively comparable to that of other latitudes. This phenomenon gives rise to unique ecosystems, where evolution and biological adaptation processes have been developed without human intervention.6 Temperatures may sink to –40˚C or lower in the winter months, and in contrast to the rather limited biodiversity of plants and animals, the microbial variety has been shown to be surprisingly diverse. Barren soil, rock landscapes, and numerous lakes at the edges of the continent, harbour a range of prokaryotes, which indicate that the extremely low temperatures are no obstacle to microbial colonisation.7
The sea pack ice and coastal attached ice around Antarctica has been found to contain abundant populations of bacteria. Approximately 30 new species of Antarctic bacteria have been described and many of them have not been found elsewhere in the world.8
Extremophiles are single-celled, prokaryotic organisms that thrive in extreme conditions, which would otherwise be toxic to life. They have adapted to their environments by optimising their metabolic processes and are believed to be some of the oldest forms of life on Earth. One type of extremophile are low-temperature- adapted microorganisms, which grow at temperatures around 0˚C.9 Psychrotrophs are cold-loving extremophiles adroitly adapted to these environmental conditions and produce extracellular compounds that may
54 PERSONAL CARE April 2012
■ Placebo cream ■ Cream containing 0.1% pseudoalteromonas expolysaccharides
36.8% 30.8% 37.2%
2 hours
8 hours
20 hours Figure 3: Hydration improvement variations in percentage.
present interesting properties for the cosmetic industry.9
Psychrotrophic species
appear to be as common in sea ice as in the underlying seawater, with Pseudoalteromonas strains the most frequently isolated psychrotrophs.10 Antarctic Pseudoalteromonas strains protect themselves against cold environments by producing high amounts of extracellular polymeric substances, which could enhance bacterial growth and survival in these extreme conditions. When an organism cools below the freezing point of its tissue fluids, ice may form, which is usually lethal for cells. At lower tissue temperatures (<0˚C), skin water freezing may start; ice-like water increases while decreasing useful water available for normal physiological processes.9 Cryoprotective products can modify the crystal’s morphology or even avoid their formation and so any damage to the lipidic bilayers. Extracellular polymeric substances produced by cold-loving extremophiles may present cryoprotective properties, which could help them to protect these organisms from freezing.
Antarcticine (INCI name:
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract) is a glycoprotein obtained through biotechnology from a marine cold-loving extremophilic strain.
During a scientific expedition to the Antarctic continent, the bacterial strain Pseudoalteromonas Antarctica NF3
was
isolated from sludge collected from the base of a glacier located in the region of Inlet Admiralty Bay (King George Island, South Shetland Island).
It was observed that the psychrotrophic bacteria produced large amounts of an extrapolymeric substance, which was mainly composed of proteins and sugars. This extrapolymeric substance had to provide some kind of protection to
Pseudoalteromonas Antarctica NF3 so that it was able to thrive in such extreme cold environmental conditions. Therefore, it was thought that it could present potential benefits in cosmetics, which were confirmed by performing some in vitro and in vivo assays on it.
Dynamic vapour sorption (DVS) profile
The water retention profile of pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides was compared to hyaluronic acid (MW ≥106
Da) by the Dynamic Vapour Sorption technique (DVS). Experiments were performed in a TGA Q5000 SA and the obtained values were analysed by the software Universal Analysis 2000 version 4.5. Pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides retained more moisture and faster than HA, proving that they retain 12.7% more water at 95% relative humidity than the known moisturising agent.
Evaluation of moisturising capacity versus HA
A panel of 8 volunteers applied a gel containing 0.01% pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides in a forearm and a gel with 0.01% HA in the other. Gels were applied at the beginning of the study and after 7 hours. Measurements were taken using a Corneometer CM 825 before the first application, at 7 hours (before the second application) and, after 24 hours. The values were analysed by the Student Test, the means were calculated and the improvement of hydration was determined. Pseudoalteromonas exopolysaccharides enhanced skin moisturising by 20.6% at 24 hours, whereas HA presented an increase of 13%. The exopolysaccharides provided 58.5% more hydration than HA.
Hydration improvement (%)
Hydration improvement variations (%)
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