WAXES
Table 1: Recommended CPW products for mascara applications. Product
INCI
JEESPERSE CPW-CARNAUBA MASCARA JEESPERSE CPW-CARNAUBA P1 JEESPERSE CPW-CARNAUBA P5
JEESPERSE CPW-2-CROSSPOLYMER-G JEESPERSE CPW-GCS
JEESPERSE CPW-PE-126A JEESPERSE CPW-2 JEESPERSE CPW-3 JEESPERSE CPW-5
mascaras. Most formulators would agree that creating mascaras without a wax would result in a formulation that would more than likely fit the description of a hydro gel. Therefore, we need to describe the functions of wax in mascaras in greater detail. By doing so we can demonstrate how critical a wax is in this type of product.
Functions of wax in emulsions/mascaras A wax can provide an increase in the viscosity of the oil phase. Emulsion theory states that if the oil phase viscosity is equal to the viscosity of the water phase, stability of that emulsion is increased. The use of waxes also has an impact on the texture of the mascara. Texture has a direct relation to how the mascara is applied. A creamy texture will allow the consumer to apply the mascara effectively. Deposition of the product on the lashes is the first critical step a consumer will make when evaluating the mascara. Too dry, too clumpy, or – in the case of a cold process mascara without a wax, too thin – could jeopardise the consumer’s positive opinion of the product.
A wax will provide film- forming attributes to the substrate. It envelops the lashes and creates a substrate that brings together all of the lipophilic ingredients contained in the formula. Esters, oils, emulsifiers, colorants, conditioning ingredients, and even film-formers such as polyurethanes or acrylate become part of the wax matrix once the solvents evaporate. Using terminology found in the
92 PERSONAL CARE April 2012
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Sodium Polyacrylate Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Sodium Polyacrylate Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Sodium Polyacrylate
Polyethylene, Sodium Polyacrylate, Dimethicone/Divinyldimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Polyacrylate Polyethylene, Sodium Polyacrylate Polyethylene, Sodium Polyacrylate Polyethylene, Sodium Polyacrylate Polyethylene, Sodium Polyacrylate
coatings industry, we could consider waxes to function as a binder.
Another function waxes perform is the role of a plasticiser. Plasticiser is a term used mainly in the plastics industry which describes an additive that makes a product less rigid. It allows for a rigid material to have better flow properties. In mascaras, we use oils such as esters, silicones or any ingredient that does not dry to a hardened film. There are film-formers whose moiety contains a plasticiser with silicone acrylate copolymers serving as a good example. An acrylate film can be very brittle so, with the addition of a silicone to its backbone, we can achieve a film that has more flexibility. A softer wax, such as beeswax, or a low melt polyethylene can produce a flexible binder. A more rigid wax such as a high melt polyethylene will lead to a stiffer binder.
A wax creates a film that encapsulates the lashes. We can choose a higher melt point wax that can provide certain degrees of hydrophobicity and thus achieve a waterproof mascara. Curling mascaras can also benefit from the selection of waxes. A higher melt point wax is, by definition, a higher molecular weight wax and in some cases this can increase the rigidity of the film as mentioned previously. This in turn can be used to achieve curling by adjusting the waxes and selecting solvents that will evaporate at a certain rate. The external film-former will, therefore, have an impact on the curling of the substrate.
In our discussion,
increased flexibility of dried mascara that has been
applied to the lashes will reduce a common issue that formulators face – mascaras that are too brittle may start to flake off the lashes. Waxes will also act as plasticisers by producing a film that is flexible and therefore can move on the lashes. Without waxes, we can start to understand the shortcomings that are inherent in cold process mascaras that do not contain waxes.
On the manufacturing side, conventional mascaras that require heating of an oil phase and water phase utilise more equipment as well as more energy. Two mixers are required and heating of the two vessels is required as well. The manufacturing of mascaras requires a very precise cooling process and due to the viscosity of this product form and the typically high levels of waxes required, issues can arise when cooling down the emulsion from its elevated temperatures. Rapid crystallisation of the waxes in an emulsion can change the expected aesthetics. Even worse, rapid crystallisation can lead to the waxes solidifying and forming non-homogenous emulsions. Another factor is the time consumed in trying to achieve the proper cool down rate. In some cases, the cooling of the emulsion can take as long, or longer, than the actual production of the emulsion.
Applying CPW technology to mascaras
Most conventional mascaras made at elevated temperatures can be duplicated using CPW technology. Selection of the CPW to match the waxes in your conventional mascara can be made-to- order. Due to cold processing, the development time for a CPW mascara is significantly reduced when compared to traditional methods R&D departments use to formulate the next best mascara. Incorporating more experimental ideas is, therefore, facilitated. Clearly, if it is faster and easier to formulate, then the ability to experiment is an obvious benefit.
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