MARINE INGREDIENTS Starfish
Astaxanthin, a pigmented antioxidant produced by many microalgae that has been suggested to be a stronger antioxidant than vitamins C and E, or than other carotenoids such as β-carotene, lycopene, lutein or zeaxanthin.17 It has been proposed that in addition to the direct antioxidant activity that can be measured in the laboratory, antioxidant ingredients may also be able to provide cytoprotective effects via delivering a boost to the consumers’ own cellular defence system that can mitigate or even block the damaging effects of ageing-related oxidative stress on the skin or hair via the prevention of DNA damage and/or lipid and protein oxidation.
marine plankton, plants and macro- invertebrates. EPS appear to be produced and secreted by marine microbes for a number of important roles, including protection from predation or desiccation, adhesion to other objects (sometimes as biofilms), enzyme stabilisation, and nutrient storage.13
In the past decade, there has been a rapid increase in the isolation of new EPS- producing bacteria from marine environments, particularly those subject to extreme conditions.14
Several new marine
microbial EPS with novel chemical compositions and functional properties have been discovered and subsequently found to have potential application as cosmetic ingredients. These include Hydrasine from Lipotec, and EPS Seamat from Codif. EPS Seamat, for example, is sourced from Brittany, is predominately composed of galacturonic acid and is marketed for the prevention of cutaneous skin shine caused by excessive production of sebum.
Anti-ageing – enzymes
Cosmetic ingredients based on marine microbe derived enzymes potentially offer substantial benefits to cosmetic formulators over conventionally sourced enzymes including improved substrate specificity, higher innate stability and improved tolerance to typical reaction conditions e.g. high salt or high temperature environments that could enable their rapid adoption. Marine-derived enzymes with unique functionalities identified to-date include lipases, cellulases, proteases, alkane hydroxylase, esterases with high tolerances for salt and organic solvents and metalloproteases with a high temperature optima.15,16
One marine microbe enzyme-based ingredient that has already reached the market is Venuceane (INCI: Thermus thermophilus Ferment (and) Glycerin), a
66 PERSONAL CARE April 2012
hydroglycolic solution obtained by a process of fermentative culturing to create a heat-stable enzyme complex. It is promoted for the prevention of the visible signs of photo-ageing (spots, wrinkles, dryness) and the protection of cell structures from UV damage. Venuceane’s success appears to be directly attributable to its unique marine derived qualities: its active substance is novel, heat stable and UV resistant which has led to its inclusion in anti-ageing and sun/after-sun formulations.10
Protection and prevention – antioxidants
Ingredients with anti-oxidant properties are in demand to assist with product preservation and to bring functional health benefits to consumers’ skin and hair. Consumers have been receptive to antioxidant claims, particularly those associated with exotic botanicals. Antioxidant ingredients can protect against cell damage through both direct and indirect quenching of free radicals created by environmental and physical stresses. Marine microbe derived ingredients that have been launched to meet this challenge include the carotenoid,
These ‘2nd generation’ antioxidants can offer novel performance benefits to consumers over and above those of free radical quenching ingredients: they can have profound protective cellular effects at cost effectively low concentrations that are far below that necessary to impart a direct antioxidant quenching effect. These effects can be measured in vitro through the use of sophisticated cellular assays. Pioneering suppliers are currently developing cosmetic ingredients that capitalise on these benefits.
Natural preservatives, anti-dandruff and anti-acne Marine microbe collections are a particularly promising source of anti- microbial candidate ingredients as the secretion of anti-bacterial and anti-fungal bio-actives is the primary means through which these micro-organisms try to exert a selective evolutionary advantage over their competitors. Additionally, production of these bio-actives is possible via traditional fermentation; an approach that could enable suppliers to provide these innovative products to their customers using truly natural, sustainable and scalable approaches.
Preservatives are widely used by manufacturers to inhibit microbial growth
Giant clam.
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