Dr Fernando Ibarra – Dr Straetmans, Germany HAIR CARE
A modern, multifunctional anti-dandruff agent
The demand for natural ingredients remains on the increase. Being a challenge for raw material suppliers it is a consequence of the market trends in major cosmetic markets worldwide. Consumers are confronted with information triggering scepticism and fears regarding the impact of chemicals on human health as well as on the environment. Recent years have shown an impressive growth of natural cosmetics and natural ingredients too. More and more, natural actives are used in cosmetics turning consumer products greener.
A segment still relatively untouched by this development is the hair care market. While in skin care products, consumers nowadays do not have to sacrifice quality when using natural cosmetics, in hair care it is still difficult to find natural products that meet the consumers’ expectations. What makes it so difficult to formulate high performing natural hair care products is obviously the self-imposed limitation in the choice of ingredients that is dictated by most natural cosmetics labels. Following the philosophy that only 100% naturally sourced ingredients are allowed and many chemical modifications prohibited, there are many classical hair care ingredients, like polyethoxylated surfactants and quaternised conditioning agents, as well as petrochemically-derived active ingredients that are not allowed for natural cosmetics. However, it is not only the market for natural cosmetics that is in need of natural innovations. Also an increasing number of conventional brands are using the natural claims that transport a positive image. Thus, the replacement of many classical and powerful ingredients like parabens, triclosane, silicones or polyethoxylated surfactants is no longer the preserve of niche products. Big brands and multinational companies are looking for more natural ingredients for their marketing but without compromising product quality and safety. One such ingredient has been developed in our laboratories in recent years. Analysing the market for anti-dandruff products, it becomes obvious that the field is dominated by a few chemical actives like Zn-pyrithione, piroctone olamine or selenium disulfide. All
■ Dermosoft decalact 2% shampoo pH 5.3
400,000 350,000 300,000
250,000 200,000 150,000 100,000 50,000 0
0 30 60 120 Time (min) 240
■ Piroctone olamine 0.75% shampoo pH 5.3 ■ Placebo shampoo pH 5.3
360
Figure 1: Reduction of Malassezia furfur in vitro at a pH of 5.3: Dermosoft decalact shows a reduction of 97% of the population after 6 hours (40% reduction after 30 minutes) while piroctone olamine eliminates only 60% after 6 hours (no reduction after 30 minutes).
1,000,000 100,000
10,000 1,000 100
10 0
0 30 60 120 Time (min) 240
■ Dermosoft decalact 2% shampoo pH 4.3
■ Piroctone olamine 0.75% shampoo pH 4.3 ■ Placebo shampoo pH 4.3
360
Figure 2: Reduction of Malassezia furfur in vitro at a pH of 4.3: Dermosoft decalact shows a total elimination of the population after 30 minutes while piroctone olamine eliminates only 60% after the same time (98% reduction after 6 hours).
April 2012 PERSONAL CARE 111
Plate count (cfu/mL)
Plate count (cfu/mL)
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