FORMULATIONS
85
Unicert® Red 07004 J (1.0% SOL.) Water, Red 4
F Perfume Murmure RS 10071 Parfum
5 0.08 6 0.10
Procedure: Weight Original Extract™ Cranberry Bio of phase A1 and add Carbopol® Ultrez 10 under stirring. Add premix A2 into A1 and mix under medium shear for 10 minutes. Check that everything is homogeneous. Pre-neutralize the carbomer before emulsification by adding A3 into A1+A2. Mix oil phase B until homogeneous. Proceed with the emulsion. Add slowly B into A under medium shear and then increase to high shear (3000 rpm) for 10-15 minutes. Finalize neutralization of the carbomer by adding phase C under moderate mixing. Finally add D, E and F. Check that everything is well dispersed.
Suppliers: 1. GATTEFOSSE 2. LUBRIZOL 3. CARGILL 4. INOLEX 5. SENSIENT 6. TECHNICO-FLOR
Procedure: Pre-blend Activsoft C-17 in glycerin until smooth uniform paste is formed. Slowly add pre-blend to water in main vessel with moderate agitation, mix until fully dispersed. Add trace amount of citric acid (50% w/w) to swell guar (A). Add ingredients in phase B to main vessel and heat to 70-75°C mix until uniform (B). Add ingredients in phase C and mix until fully melted and uniform, start to cool to 50°C maintain temperature at 50°C for 2 hours to allow crystal growth and give pearlised effect (C). Remove from the heat then add sequentially ingredients in phase (D). When below 40°C add Extrapone Silk GW N and mix until uniform (E). Add fragrance and mix until fully emulsified (F). Add preservatives in (G) and mix until uniform and clear. Adjust formulation pH to 5.3-6.0 with 50% w/w citric acid solution (H). Add 0.2%w/w aliquots of sodium chloride until required viscosity reached (I). Properties: Appearance: White pearly viscous liquid pH: 5.30-6.00 Viscosity: 6,000 -10,000 cP Brookfield RV, #4, 20°C, 20rpm Stability: 12 weeks, 45°C, 20°C, 5°C, and 3F/T Cycles
Suppliers: 1. Innospec 2. Symrise 3. Azur Fragrances
HALLSTAR PERFECT MATCHA LOTION BAR
PHASE INGREDIENTS A Biochemica® Matcha Green Tea Butter
Biochemica® Craft Shea Butter
Biochemica® Lemon Butter
Biochemica® Babassu Oil Ultra Refined
Biochemica® Sweet Almond Oil
B Olivem® 900 INCI NAME
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil Sorbitan Olivate Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax
JZ15-194B % W/W
25.00 35.00 5.00 7.00
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil up to 100
7.50 10.00
Procedure: In the main vessel, combine and mix phase A and heat up to 80°C. Mix in phase B until uniform. Mix to cool down. When <70°C, add phase C with mixing until uniform before filling into packages.
Suppliers: 1. Cargill 2. Merck 3. Dr. Straetmans 4. Rita 5. Isca 6. Symrise 7. BASF
KOSTER KEUNEN BRIGHT & BASHFUL BLUSH
PHASE INGREDIENTS INCI NAME
A Sustainable Beeswax Beeswax Kester Wax K-60P Kester Wax K-24 Jeechem CTG Castor Oil Jojoba Oil
Vitamin E Acetate
Prestige® Sparkling Coral Gold
Sumicos™ Iridescent Pink
Prestige® Bright Fire Red
Polyhydroxystearic Acid Lauryl Laurate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil Tocopheryl Acetate
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxides (and) Carmine
Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide Mica (and) Iron Oxides Unipure Pink LC 5896 CI 77007
# 1/23-6358/484-8 SPLR % W/W
1 1 1
7.0
13.0 5.0
2 10.0 3
14.0
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 3 20.0 4
1.0
5 5 5
6 14.0 12.0
1.0 3.0
INNOSPEC PEARLY THERE HAIR & BODY CLEANSER
PHASE INGREDIENTS A Aqua
Glycerin Activsoft C-17 Citric Acid Solution B Aqua
Iselux® LQ-CLR-SB Nansa® LSS 38/AV
C Empilan® EGMS Empigen® S18
D Empigen® BS/FA Empigen® CDR 60
INCI NAME Aqua
Sclerotium gum (and) Xanthan gum Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Citric Acid
Aqua
Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate C14-C16 Alpha Olefin Sulfonate Glycol Cetearate
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Cocamidopropyl Betaine Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
Fragrance
Procedure: Combine Phase A ingredients, mix and melt at 85°C until uniform. Once homogenous, begin to cool to room temperature while continuing to mix. Pour into containers at about 70-75°C. Properties: Stability: Three months at 45°C, three months at room temperature, three freeze/thaw cycles.
H0163
SPLR % W/W 20.00 2.00
1 0.20 Trace
q.s. to 100
1 9.00 1 1
1 0.50 1 1
7.00 3.00
E Extrapone Silk GW N Aqua (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed Silk 2 3.00 F Mars
G Sodium Benzoate Phenoxyethanol Benzyl Alcohol
H Citric Acid Solution (50% w/w) I Sodium Chloride
Sodium Benzoate Phenoxyethanol Benzyl Alcohol
Citric Acid Sodium Chloride
0.30 0.50 0.50 0.40
q.s. to
pH 5.3- 6.0
q.s. to
6.000- 10.000 cps
www.personalcaremagazine.com D2
15.00 2.00
Suppliers: 1. Koster Keunen, Inc. 2. Jeen International 3. Barentz 4. BASF 5. Sudarshan; 6. Sensient Beauty
NAGASE VIITA CO., LTD BLUE LIGHT PLUS INTENSIVE DEFENSE SERUM
PHASE INGREDIENTS A
INCI NAME Water
Butylene Glycol Disodium EDTA Carbomer
B
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate Cetearyl Alcohol
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate Alkyl Benzoate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil Dodecane
Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
C D1 AA2GTM Water
Aminomethyl Propanol Water
Ascorbyl Glucoside Water
Sodium Citrate
I2L-108-109 % W/W
q.s.
4.00 0.05 0.45 0.50 2.00 1.50
2.00 0.20 2.00 1.50
1.00 1.00
0.30 5.00 2.00 1.68
0.30 September 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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