32 HAIR CARE
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine), both give conditioning to the skin and hair, without the need for silicones or oils that can deteriorate foam. As a multifunctional ingredient
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine also provides rheology modification, improving the suspension of the pearliser, Empilan® EGMS (INCI name: Glycol Distearate) and improving the overall formula stability. This presents a pearly aspect throughout this luscious, viscous, low-cost formula.
Generating cost-effective foam performance and profile Initial swatch washing experiments have been conducted to show the quantity and quality of foam from this formula. These were conducted using the H0163 formula with and without Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate. Standard 10-inch dark brown European
hair swatches were wet with water and a controlled amount of formula added to each swatch. The swatches were lathered for 30 seconds with the foam drained into a weighing boat. We observed the C14-C16 Alpha Olefin
Sulfonate alone provides excellent high volume and stable foam. This gives an extremely cost-effective product. Yet it is the addition of a small quantity of Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate that provides additional properties to the formula foam with improved speed of foam and density. Secondly a mannequin head with dark
brown European hair was wet thoroughly and controlled amounts of formula without and with the presence of Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate was lathered into the hair. The foam generated was left in situ for visual assessment. Observations of the foaming process noted an even more improved effect.
A multifunctional ingredient conditioning effect Pearly There Hair and Body Cleanser is an effective cleanser, yet it also shows additional superiority in its conditioning performance. This is primarily due to the addition of conditioning ingredients but secondarily
Trade name Aqua Glycerin Activsoft C-17
Iselux LQ-CLR-SB Nansa LSS 38/AV Empilan EGMS Empigen S18
Empigen BS/FA Empigen CDR 60 Extrapine Silk GW N Mars
Preservative Preservative Preservative pH modifier
Viscosifier
INCI Ingredients Aqua
Glycerin
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Citric Acid (50% w/w)
Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate C14-C16 Alpha Olefin Sulfonate Glycol Cetearate
Strearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Cocamidopropyl Betaine Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
Aqua (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed Silk Fragrance
Sodium Benzoate Phenoxyethanol Benzyl Alcohol
Suppliers: 1. Innospec 2. Symrise
Citric Acid (50% w/w) Sodium Chloride 3. Azur Fragrance
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
2 3
Figure 2: A mannequin head washed with the formula H0163 without (left) and with (right) the inclusion of Iselux LQ-CLR-SB
due to the surfactant system aiding active deposition. Starting with the conditioning
ingredients. This formula includes Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, a highly charged cationic polymer, naturally derived from guar bean, and Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, both give conditioning to skin and hair. To measure the conditioning performance
TABLE 3: THE FORMULAS USED TO DETERMINE THE CONDITIONING PERFORMANCE FROM PEARLY THERE HAIR AND BODY CLEANSER
SPLR A
q.s. 2.0 0.0
Trace 9.0
15.0 2.0 0.0 7.0 3.0 0.0 0.3
0.50 0.50 0.40
6,000 cps B
q.s. 2.0 0.2
Trace 9.0
15.0 2.0 0.0 7.0 3.0 0.0 0.3
0.50 0.50 0.40
6,000 cps q.s to C
q.s. 2.0 0
Trace 9.0
15.0 2.0 0.5 7.0 3.0 0.0 0.3 0.5 0.5 0.4
6,000 cps q.s to D
q.s. 2.0 0.2
Trace 9.0
15.0 2.0 0.5 7.0 3.0 0.0 0.3 0.5 0.5 0.4
q.s. to pH 5.4 q.s. to pH 5.4 q.s. to pH 5.4 q.s. to pH 5.4 q.s to
6,000 cps q.s to
on hair, formulas were made of the base chassis and that chassis with each active conditioning ingredient and the combined conditioning ingredients. The formulas are listed in Table 3. 10-inch dark brown European hair swatches
were washed with each formula listed above according to a standard protocol. After air drying the swatches were tested on a Texture Analyser to measure the dry combing friction force (g). The comparison was made between
swatches washed in a Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) Base Control versus Pearly There Cleanser formula without actives versus formula with Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride versus formula with Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine versus formula with both Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine. It can be seen from Figure 4 that the Pearly
There H0163 base chassis improves the dry combing of swatches compared to an SLES control base. Furthermore, on an individual level, both
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine when included into the H0163 chassis show reduced combing force, although error bars would show this not to be significant. When Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
PERSONAL CARE September 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Figure 1: Weighing boats containing the foam generated from the swatch washing of formula H0163 without and with Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate respectively
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