HAIR CARE
and Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine are combined in the chassis is when we see the greatest reduction in combing force. Having a low combing force is indicative
that hair swatches are conditioned, and the end consumer can easily comb hair with less tug. This, in turn, helps to reduce hair damage. We have visualised the effect of the
conditioning actives on curly hair swatches. Using 11-inch dark brown European wavy swatches, the swatches were wet and washed according to a standard wash again. In correlation to the combing force results,
it can be observed that the conditioning agent inclusion shows improvements in the reduction of frizz and volume in the wavy hair swatches compared to a SLES base wash. It is the H0163 formula containing both Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine and Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride synergistically that shows the best curl definition.
Multifunctional benefits of Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine As well as a useful conditioning agent there are several other benefits to the inclusion of Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine into a formula. The first of these is that it also helps to reduce hair static. Figure 6 demonstrates that when bleached
hair is washed in a formula H0163 containing Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine there is a significant reduction in static observed on the
33
600 450 300 150 0
SLES Control H0163 Control
H0163 C17 Treatment
H0163 S18 H0163 S18 C17
Figure 4: Results to show the effect of Pearly There Hair And Body Cleanser: (1) SLES control; (2) Formula H0163 Control A; (3) Formula H0163 + Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride B; (4) Formula H0163 + Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine C; (5) Formula H0163 + Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride + Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine D
hair swatch compared to the same swatch washed in H0163 without Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine. Secondly, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
also provides added viscosity to formula H0163, acting as a suspending agent for pearliser in the Pearly There Hair and Body Cleanser. Graph 2 above shows the rheological
profiles of formula H0163 with and without Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine at 20°C and 45°C. At a shear rate representative of formula
sitting in a bottle, so very little shear similar to 0.01 s-1
formula represented in both cases by dotted lines, i.e. those without Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, would be produced without Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine. Stability studies have been conducted to show that Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine is required in this formula to suspend pearliser.
, there is differences in viscosity at both
20°C and 45°C, although at 45°C this difference is significant. This indicates that lower viscosity
www.personalcaremagazine.com
September 2024 PERSONAL CARE
Max Combing Force (g)
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