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NEWS
Silab unwraps biopeptide anti-ageing active
Silab has taken the wraps off Commusys, an anti-ageing active ingredient rich in biopeptides derived from the yeast Pichia stipitis, which acts on transcompartmental communication in the skin. By regulating the molecular
players involved in communication from the dermis to the epidermis, it reactivates epidermal biological functions for hydrating, smoothing and radiance-boosting effects. Silab got particularly
interested in transcompartmental communication between the dermis and the epidermis during ageing, an essential component to ensure skin longevity. To this end, a novel in vitro modeling study was implemented. First, the mediators involved in dermal-epidermal communication
were mapped, highlighting the major role of the proteome, miRNA expression in extracellular vesicles (including exosomes), and the IGF- 1/IGF-1R pathway. Silab then demonstrated that these mediators were deregulated during ageing, leading to a communication shortfall that impairs the biological functions of the epidermis. Given this observation, Silab has developed Commusys, an active
ingredient capable of regulating the molecular players involved in communication from the dermis to the epidermis, thereby reactivating epidermal functions. Indeed, the secretome of aged
fibroblasts treated with a 0.4% Commusys increases keratinocyte processes such as cell proliferation and cohesion, keratinocyte differentiation, hydration and anchoring of keratinocytes at the dermal-epidermal junction. The French manufacturer says
these results translate in vivo on a mature Caucasian panel into positive effects on epidermal renewal and thickness, assessed using optical biopsies. The skin of Caucasian and Asian
volunteers is hydrated, smoothed and radiant after a twice-daily use of 1.7% Commusys.
Symrise unveils deodorizing ingredient
Symrise has unveiled SymDeo PMD green, a deodorizing ingredient made from 100% biobased ester technology with a natural origin index of 1. SymDeo PMD green (INCI:
propanediol caprate) is said to be suitable for full-body applications, low-fragrance or aluminium-free concepts, and all deodorant formats. Its antimicrobial profile shows
strong activity against odour- causing gram-positive bacteria. This includes anaerobic bacteria that form an important target for
odour protection typically difficult to inhibit. It also offers anti-irritant properties indicating benefits for the sensitive underarm area. Additionally, SymDeo PMD green has antifungal properties relevant
for skin protection. This makes it the ideal ingredient for products designed to tackle foot odour. The German firm has also
launched SymFeel Quat Green, a 100% natural, readily biodegradable hair care ingredient made from white sugar beet molasses. The German maker says it is
designed to replace synthetic polyquats Polyquaternium 7 (PQ-7) and Polyquaternium 10 (PQ-10) in hair care formulations, like shampoos and conditioners, while maintaining desired performance.
OQ Chemicals launches D5-alternative ester
German personal care ingredient maker OQ Chemicals has launched OxBalance Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate (NPG Diheptanoate), a biomass- balanced light emollient ester for cosmetics certified under the International Sustainability and Carbon Certification (ISCC) PLUS scheme.
The ester, which follows the
launch of a conventional version last year, is said to outperform cyclic silicones (D5), which
PERSONAL CARE September 2024
are being phased out due to EU regulations. OxBalance NPG Diheptanoate is particularly effective in sun care, colour cosmetics, skin care, hair care, and antiperspirant applications, adds OQ Chemicals. It forms a non-occlusive,
protective layer that retains skin moisture longer, preventing dryness. In sunscreens, it ensures
excellent solubility and spreadability of organic UV filters, preventing crystallization for smooth and even
application. In colour cosmetics, NPG
Diheptanoate aids solubility and dispersion of actives and pigments. “The cosmetics and personal
care industry is increasingly prioritizing eco-friendly formulations. Our certified Oxbalance NPG Diheptanoate supports formulators in achieving high-quality, effective cosmetic formulations that align with sustainability goals.”
Active Concepts takes lid off AC
Skinmuni-Tea Active Concepts has launched AC Skinmuni-Tea, claimed to be a mood-enhancing skin care ingredient derived from organic matcha leaves and fermented with Lactobacillus. ‘Skinmuni-Tea’ is a blend of
‘skin’ and ‘immunity’, inspired by the skin’s natural defences, and ‘tea’, referring to the use of finely ground green tea leaves, or matcha. Active Concepts sought
to develop an antioxidant powerhouse offering multifunctional benefits using naturally sourced niacinamide (vitamin B3) and vitamin C from organic matcha. AC Skinmuni-Tea is a unique,
anti-stress ingredient designed to promote well-ageing and improve mood. It optimizes skin immunity,
reduces inflammation, enhances moisture retention, boosts cellular renewal, and offers even more benefits for overall relaxation and skin health. “As the idea of beauty expands,
consumers are looking beyond traditional beauty categories to fulfil their self-care needs,” said a spokeswoman. “There is an intricate connection
between the mind and body; our research explores the link between mood and skin with this potent biofermented matcha extract,” she added. Active Concepts sources green
tea leaves from a family-run tea farm in Japan that cultivates high- quality organic matcha leaves. Tea has been a significant part
of Japanese culture for centuries, with the traditional tea ceremony being integral to the country’s cultural heritage. By purchasing matcha from
traditional Japanese tea farms, the company honours old traditions, supports the family tea farms, and stimulates the local economy.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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