HAIR CARE
31
Product development for high performance, low cost
Heather Clarkson - Innospec
As a supplier of performance chemicals for the personal care market, Innospec is always innovating to provide mild, sustainable, and environmentally friendly ingredient solutions that our customers can use in formulations. To enable us to deliver on this, we find new ways to create products and guide formulations to meet our customer and end consumer needs. As well as this, it is a key priority to ensure that performance is at the heart of all our chemical and formulation options. One aspect of this theme that is important
for Innospec, is to create multifunctional formulations that can be used in the shower providing enhanced performance with less water usage. Plus, our ingredient inclusion gives end consumers high performing, mild products whilst also maintaining an attractive low price point.
Innospec’s Pearly There Hair and Body Cleanser Pearly There Hair and Body Cleanser is a pearlescent formula that has been created with optimised surfactant functionality using sulfate-free surfactants to gently cleanse hair and body. Nansa® LSS 38/AV (INCI name: Sodium Alpha Olefin Sulfonate), provides a creamy, cost-effective, foam.
The speed and volume of foam is significantly boosted with the inclusion of a A Aqua Glycerin Activsoft C-17 B C D
E F
G H I
Iselux LQ-CLR-SB NANSA LS5 38/AV EMPILAN EGMS EMPIGEN S18
EMPIGEN BS/FA EMPIGEN CDR 60 Extrapone Silk GW N Mars
Sodium Benzoate Phenoxyethanol Benzyl Alcohol
Citric Acid Sodium Chloride Suppliers: 1. Innospec 2. Symrise
INCI Ingredients Aqua
Glycerin Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium
Citric Acid Solution (50% w/w) Citric Acid Aqua
Aqua
Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate C14-C16 Alpha Olefin Sulfonate Glycol Cetearate
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
Aqua (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed Silk Fragrance
Sodium Benzoate Phenoxyethanol Benzyl Alcohol
Citric Acid Sodium Chloride 3. Azur Fragrance
1 1 1 1 1 1
2 3
ABSTRACT
As spending power becomes more restricted consumers are demanding more from their cosmetics. They want lower prices, but they still want superior performance. Alongside this there is also a conscious consumer need for more environmentally friendly products that consume less water in the shower, so multifunctional products are becoming important. By careful combination of surfactants and conditioning agents it is possible to develop formulations with high foaming characteristics, good conditioning and still maintain a low price point. We present Pearly There Hair and Body Cleanser – a multifunctional product that can be used as a 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner and a body wash – allowing consumers to only turn on the shower once to rinse and therefore reduce their hot water consumption. We will also demonstrate how the inclusion of two conditioning agents reduces the combing force on hair, reduces static and improves hair alignment. In addition, we will show how the combination of sulfate- free surfactants provides a voluminous foam profile and improved deposition of conditioning actives. Finally, we will present rheology data to show that the multifunctional conditioning active can also suspend the pearlising agent and improve formulation appearance and stability.
low level of Iselux® LQ-CLR-SB (INCI name: Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate). The mildness and viscosity of the formulation is enhanced with the inclusion of Empigen® BS/FA (INCI name: Cocamidopropyl Betaine) and Empigen CDR 60 (INCI name: Sodium
TABLE 1: FORMULATION FOR PEARLY THERE HAIR AND BODY CLEANSER H016 Phase Trade name
SPLR % w/w 20.00 2.00 0.20 Trace
1
q.s. to 100 9.00 15.00 2.00 0.50 7.00 3.00 3.00 0.30 0.50 0.50 0.40
q.s. to pH 5.3-6.0
6,000-
10,000 cps
Viscosifier Sodium Chloride Suppliers: 1. Innospec 2. Symrise 3. Azur Fragrance q.s. to Activsoft C-17
Iselux LQ-CLR-SB NANSA LS5 38/AV EMPILAN EGMS EMPIGEN S18
EMPIGEN BS/FA
Cocoamphoacetate). The functional conditioning agents
include Activsoft C-17 (INCI name: Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride), a highly charged cationic polymer, naturally derived from guar bean, and Empigen S18 (INCI name:
TABLE 2: THE FORMULA USED FOR FOAM TESTING WITHOUT AND WITH SODIUM LAUROYL METHYL ISETHIONATE
Trade name
INCI Ingredients Aqua
Glycerin
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Citric Acid (50% w/w)
Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate C14-C16 Alpha Olefin Sulfonate Glycol Cetearate
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine
EMPIGEN CDR 60 Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
Extrapone Silk GW N Aqua (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed Silk Mars
Fragrance
Preservative Preservative Preservative
pH modification
Sodium Benzoate Phenoxyethanol Benzyl Alcohol
Citric Acid
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
2 3
SPLR (Without Iselux) % w/w
q.s.
2.00 0.20 Trace 0.00
22.00 2.00 0.50 7.00 3.00 0.00 0.30 0.50 0.50 0.40
pH 5.3-6.0 q.s. to
6,000 cps q.s. to
(With Iselux) % w/w
q.s.
2.00 0.20 Trace 9.00 15.00 2.00 0.50 7.00 3.00 0.00 0.30 0.50 0.50 0.40
pH 5.3-6.0 q.s. to
6,000 cps q.s. to
www.personalcaremagazine.com
September 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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