FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
73
Meeting demands for modern rheology modifiers
Joseph E. Prata, Steven J. Smith, Brian Figura, Eulalia Peri, Jessica Becker, Carole Lepilleur, Narjis Askar, Bryan Moran, Sinan Li, Marina Baum - Lubrizol
Formulating new beauty products has never been more challenging. Stringent regulatory requirements, increasing customer expectations for performance, and a growing trend toward sustainable products make designing new molecules difficult. Raw material sustainability has been
a primary focus when discussing product development. Sustainability encompasses many aspects of a product’s life. Market interest, however, has been focused on environmental fate at the end of life; namely, biodegradability. Synthetic water soluble and dispersible
polymers play an important role as thickeners, emulsifiers, rheology modifiers, conditioning agents, and other formulating aids. Their high molecular weights and complex structures make these polymers difficult to biodegrade. The use of natural polymers like starch,
cellulose, and other polysaccharides has been increasing in many formulation ingredients. While biodegradable, their performance has yet to match synthetics. To transition our products toward greater
naturality, Carbopol Fusion S-20 polymer, a starch-supported copolymer, has been developed. After years of research and experimentation this product is ready to solve challenges in rheology modification of rinse-off formulations that require performance and sustainability. This polymer demonstrates viscoelastic
behavior equivalent to synthetic rheology modifiers in sulfated, and sulfate-free surfactant chassis. The polymer exhibits sustainable characteristics meeting the inherent biodegradability threshold in
6000 5000 4000 3000 2000 1000 0
an OECD 301B biodegradation test. Its manufacturing process addresses all 12 principles of green chemistry and uses a renewable feedstock with good traceability. The polymer is free from genetically modified organisms (GMO), ethoxylated ingredients (EOs), cold-processable, has a low carbon footprint, and is considered to be microbiome friendly. This novel ingredient represents an evolution in our
Brookfield Yield Value ■ Brookfield Viscosity■ 1.5 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 Polymer Concentration (Total Solids %)
1000 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0
50 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0
rheology modifier portfolio and solidifies our commitment to a sustainable future.
Broad compatibility across sulfated and sulfate-free surfactant chassis Performance in sulfated chassis This novel ingredient was tested in a variety of sulfated surfactant formulations (including low% surfactant and more challenging sulfated surfactants) and demonstrated outstanding
Turbidity■
1.5
2.0
2.5
3.0 Polymer Concentration (TS%)
Figure 1: Viscosity, yield value and turbidity properties within a sulfated chassis. Traditional sulfated chassis composition: 11.2% active Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), 2.3% TS Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB) at pH 6.5. *Brookfield® viscosity at 20 rpm (mPa·s)
www.personalcaremagazine.com September 2024 PERSONAL CARE
3.5
Viscosity* (mPa·s)
Yield Value (dynes/cm2
)
Turbidity (NTU)
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