34 HAIR CARE SLES A B C D
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
Figure 5: Wavy hair swatches washed with SLES(1), H0163 control(2), H0163 + Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride (3), H0163 + Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (4) and H0163 + Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride + Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (5)
Improved deposition of cationic conditioning agents due to Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate Most interesting in this story of conditioning is that whilst synergistic benefit is provided by the conditioning agents, we can also use the multifunctional aspects of Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate to improve the deposition of cationic actives like Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride onto hair which in turn improves the conditioning measured.
The mechanism of deposition in this case is through complex coacervation.1
A combination
of anionic surfactant and cationic polymer in the formula forms a coacervate during the dilution phase of shampooing. Complex coacervate is positively charged and therefore electrostatically attracted to hair an anionic substrate. To investigate this, we used an in vitro
testing method where wool swatches were used to replicate the hair substrate. Wool can be used as a reproducible, uniform model for hair in these experiments. A 2-inch flannel wool swatch was washed in a controlled quantity of formula by a
Without Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
With Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Figure 6: The reduction in static observed for bleached swatches when washed with formula H0163 without (left) and with (right) Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
H0163 20°C without Empigen S18 ■ H0163 20°C with Empigen S18 ■ H0163 45°C without Empigen S18 ■ H0163 45°C with Empigen S18 ■
18000 16000 14000 12000 10000 8000 6000 4000 2000 0
0.01 0.1 1 Shear rate (s-1)
Figure 7: A graph to show the rheological flow curves of formula H0163 with and without Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine at 20°C and 45°C
standardised wash method. During the washing process cationic
coacervate is deposited onto the anionic wool swatch. This remains deposited after rinsing with water.
TABLE 4: THE FORMULAS USED TO DETERMINE THE DEPOSITION OF CATIONIC POLYMER, GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, FROM FORMULA H0163 WITH AND WITHOUT SODIUM LAUROYL METHYL ISETHIONATE VERSUS CONTROL OF NO POLYMER
Trade name Activsoft C-17
Iselux LQ-CLR-SB Nansa LSS 38/AV Empilan EGMS Empigen S18
Empigen BS/FA Empigen CDR 60 Extrapine Silk GW N Mars
Preservative Preservative Preservative pH modifier
Viscosifier
INCI Ingredients Aqua
Glycerin
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Citric Acid (50% w/w)
Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate C14-C16 Alpha Olefin Sulfonate Glycol Cetearate
Strearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Cocamidopropyl Betaine Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
Aqua (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed Silk Fragrance
Sodium Benzoate Phenoxyethanol Benzyl Alcohol
Suppliers: 1. Innospec 2. Symrise
Citric Acid (50% w/w) Sodium Chloride 3. Azur Fragrance
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
2 3
SPLR A
q.s. 2.0 0.2
Trace 9.0
15.0 2.0 0.5 7.0 3.0 0.0 0.3
0.50 0.50 0.40
q.s. to pH 5.4 q.s to
6,000 cps B
q.s. 2.0 0.2
Trace 0.0
22.0 2.0 0.5 7.0 3.0 0.0 0.3
0.50 0.50 0.40
q.s. to pH 5.4 q.s to
6,000 cps C
q.s. 2.0 0.0
Trace 9.0
15.0 2.0 0.5 7.0 3.0 0.0 0.3 0.5 0.5 0.4
q.s. to pH 5.4 q.s to
6,000 cps
electrostatically binds Direct Red 80 dye causing a staining effect.2
Cationic polymer within the coacervate Stain intensity is
related to the amount of polymer deposition. The more cationic polymer that deposits, the more red dye will deposit and subsequently, the more red the swatch will appear. In Figure 8, it can be observed that
when wool swatches are washed in a formula containing Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate and then sprayed in red dye, the swatch is more red due to the dye binding to increased levels of deposited cationic Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride compared to a formula without Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate and a control. The red stain intensity is related to the
amount of polymer deposited and quantified using L*a*b* values by spectrophotometry, using only the a* value of redness. As in the visual observation, the
spectrophotometry measurement of a* red value of the swatches shows that the formula with Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate significantly aids the deposition of cationic polymer onto the hair swatches. We have repeated the same washing
PERSONAL CARE September 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com 10 100
Viscosity (mPa·s)
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