COVER STORY: LIPOID KOSMETIK AG ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE BakuLipid®
In cosmetics, retinol is well-known for its anti- ageing and anti-blemish properties, yet it may cause skin irritations. Consequently, plant- based alternatives like bakuchiol are gaining popularity as gentler options with similar effectiveness. Several in vivo studies have confirmed the efficacy of bakuchiol, though its formulations are still being optimized. One potential strategy is to enhance the
epidermal penetration of bakuchiol and combine it with complementary substances. Phospholipids are an excellent example; they are natural components of cell membranes, making them highly biocompatible, completely biodegradable, and free of irritation. Unsaturated phospholipids improve skin delivery and serve as active ingredients for skin care and rejuvenation. Lipoid Kosmetik’s BakuLipid® is the first
active ingredient blend approved by COSMOS and NATRUE, combining bakuchiol from Psoralea corylifolia seeds with unsaturated phospholipids to enhance skin penetration. This dual function makes BakuLipid® highly effective for treating skin blemishes and age- related concerns, significantly outperforming bakuchiol in vivo.
Consumers prefer plant-derived retinol alternatives To investigate consumer preferences for retinol and its alternatives, volunteers were asked to rate their preferred anti-ageing ingredient among three options: (i) synthetic retinol, (ii) a plant-derived retinol alternative, and (iii) a plant-derived retinol alternative combined with a dermal penetration enhancer. Participants evaluated these options based
Which anti-ageing cream has the highest efficacy?
4% 14% 32% 50% 50% 14% 36% 64%
■ No preference ■ Synthetic retinol ■ Plant-derived retinol alternative ■ Plant-derived retinol alternative + dermal delivery system
Figure 1: A plant-derived retinol alternative is preferred over synthetic retinol, especially in combination with a dermal penetration enhancer
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Lipoid Kosmetik AG Sennweidstrasse 44/46, CH-6312 Steinhausen, Switzerland Tel: +41 (0) 41 748 33 33 E-Mail:
info@lipoid-kosmetik.com Website:
www.lipoid-kosmetik.com
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on safety, efficacy, and general preference in cosmetics. The results revealed that consumers favor plant-derived retinol alternatives over synthetic retinol, particularly when combined with a dermal penetration enhancer (Figure 1).
Bakuchiol and phospholipids: ideal match for anti-blemish and anti-aging claims To investigate the effects of bakuchiol with and without unsaturated phospholipids on skin blemishes and skin rejuvenation, two separate in vivo studies were conducted. Female volunteers applied a BakuLipid® cream
Which anti-ageing cream is the safest?
Which anti-ageing cream would you prefer?
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to one side of their face and a bakuchiol cream with equal amounts of bakuchiol to the other side for 42 days (anti-blemish study) and 56 days (anti-ageing study). Product efficacy was assessed through instrumental measurements, clinical expert evaluations (anti-blemish study), and consumer self-assessments. Results showed that the BakuLipid® cream
significantly reduced sebum levels in blemished skin by 27% after 42 days, which is 12% better than the bakuchiol cream. Clinical expert evaluations indicated a 52% improvement in blemished skin after 42 days of treatment, which is 20% better than the bakuchiol cream (data not shown). The anti-ageing study confirmed similar
positive effects. Comparing a cream with BakuLipid® to a cream with bakuchiol alone showed a general improvement in 3D topography. The number of wrinkles in the crow’s feet area treated with BakuLipid® significantly decreased by 17%, outperforming the bakuchiol cream. After 56 days of treatment with BakuLipid®,
the surface profile revealed smoother skin with less deep wrinkles. In a survey, consumers noted that both the BakuLipid® cream and the bakuchiol cream effectively treated signs of ageing, such as skin smoothness, evenness, and fine lines. However, when asked directly which cream was more effective, most consumers reported better results with the BakuLipid® cream (data not shown).
Conclusion In summary, BakuLipid® meets consumer preferences and expectations by combining bakuchiol, a plant-derived retinol alternative, with a dermal penetration enhancer based on phospholipids for enhanced efficacy. Additionally, the unsaturated phospholipids offer extra skin care benefits. Consequently, BakuLipid® is an upgraded version of bakuchiol, making it an ideal ingredient for cosmetic anti- ageing and anti-blemish products that aim to replace retinol with bakuchiol while providing superior performance.
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