26 FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
60 49.21% 40 35.20% 37.31%
20
14.31% 10.67% 0
20 16 12 8 4 0
S. Lauroyl Glutamate
Glutamate
Sodium Olivoyl
Glucoside Decyl SLES
Figure 1: Hydration values average percentage variation By keeping skin hydrated, it could have
positive effects in soothing acne. It has been demonstrated that, thanks to its ability to inhibit excess melanin production, it could be useful for skin discolouration. Different studies demonstrated that linoleic acid has several benefits for hair metabolism: it may help reduce inflammation and regulate sebum production in the scalp that can cause hair loss; improve blood circulation, maintain hair follicle cells health supporting strong hair growth, strength and elasticity. It has been found that olive oil could be
effective in treating various inflammation and cutaneous damaged caused by xerosis, rosacea, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, contact dermatitis (diaper dermatitis), eczema (including severe hand and foot eczema), seborrhea, pruritus.6-14 Furthermore, glutamic acid boasts proven
hydrating and skin conditioning benefits, as well as a high biocompatibility with the hair shaft (it is the third most abundant amino-acid occurring in hair keratin).
Testing Sodium Olivoyl Glutamate ‘surf-active’ complex and other mild benchmark surfactants In vivo tests The study objective is to evaluate surfactants’ non-irritability, eudermicity and ability to not alter hydrolipidic-film by a non-invasive human test in-use on 20 healthy volunteers. In vivo
18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
S. Cocoyl Glycinate
-4
S. Lauroyl Glutamate
Glutamate Olivoil Glucoside Decyl SLES
S. Cocoyl Glycinate
Figure 2: Erhythema index values average percentage variation
efficacy assessment of sodium lauroyl glutamate (SLG), decyl glucoside (DG), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), sodium cocoyl glycinate (SCG) and sodium olivoyl glutamate/disodium cocoyl glutamate (OG) was carried out. The treatments performed required the
application of test products concentrated at 17% or 5% (in the case of the TEWL test) on the fly forearm. The protocol involves scrubbing 1mL of
surfactant solution for one minute, then rinsing under running water and then drying, by blotting with adsorbent paper; at the end of the test the skin parameters were assessed. Subjects were examined in a closed room, at controlled temperature and humidity (20 ± 2°C, 50 ± 5 % r.H.) after a dwell time of 30 minutes approximately. At baseline (T0), and at the end of the test
(Tf), the following parameters were detected. ■ Stratum corneum hydration detected through Corneometer® CM 825. ■ Itching action using Mexameter MX 18, to determine skin tolerance. Thanks to its specific wavelengths, the device selectively visualizes and quantifies the skin haemoglobin content. ■ Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was calculated through DermaLab Combo skin analysis system; OG and DG samples were applied as a 5% aqueous solution; additional solutions were applied to the volunteers, in particular: 5% aqueous solution of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and physiological water.
Ex vivo studies on hair locks The same surfactants analyzed in vivo were the object of various studies carried out on Caucasian straight hair locks; the analyzed parameters are hair cuticle angle determination, conditioning and shining action. The hair locks were treated with the test
products according to the following steps. ■ Moisten the strand, under running water for ten seconds ■ Wash the hair with a surfactant solution in a 1:5:1 ratio, massaging ten times from top to bottom. Surfactant active matter: 17%. ■ Rinse under running water for about 30 seconds, massaging ten times from top to bottom. ■ Pat dry with a cotton towel ■ Air dry the strands for 24 hours in a temperature and humidity-controlled environment (20°C, 50% RH) to avoid stressful conditions to the hair.
Contact Angle measurement The contact angle was evaluated using First Ten Angstroms (optical tensiometer that measures the contact angle of a drop on a surface). It is an indirect measure of surface wetting. When a droplet begins to spread on a surface, its contact angle becomes <90°. Complete wetting occurs when the droplet
@5%
is flat or, in other words, when the droplet has a contact angle of 0°. Commonly, undamaged hair is known to be hydrophobic. This is due to the structure of the cuticle in its healthy conformation. In contrast, damaged hair tends to have hydrophilic behaviour. When a coating is hydrophobic, a high
contact angle is created between a hydrophilic liquid, such as the water, and a substrate (hair). Therefore, the contact angle can provide useful information about the state of cuticle, following washing with the tested surfactants.
Physiological Water
Figure 3: TEWL reduction PERSONAL CARE September 2024
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Glucoside Decyl Glutamate Olivoil
Anti-frizz measurement Anti-frizz was determined by Bolero Lite through Hair Frizz Index (HFI). Determination was conducted using high-resolution images of test locks. The imaging software allows the bulk of the strand and the fly-aways (frizzy hair) to be recorded. Therefore, by difference in strand volume
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9.86% 7.26%
1.35% -4.80% -0.29%
Water Vapour Mass (g/m2
h)
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