66 MARINE INGREDIENTS A
250 200 150 100 50 0
Twofold increase β-catenin
B C-
3% eye contour ingredient
250 200 150 100 50 0
1.36-fold increase plakoglobin
C-
3% eye contour ingredient
Figure 4: Epidermal cell adhesion proteins expression in HaCaT cells using the eye contour ingredient. A: β-catenin expression and B: Plakoglobin expression. Results of densitometry analysis. Replicates=2.C-: basal medium culture without the active ingredient
pellet (pellet fraction 1) is used for the second aqueous extraction producing the eye contour active. The cosmetic efficacy of this ingredient was published in the March 2024 issue of Personal Care Global.9 Two new clinical tests were performed
for this eye contour ingredient. The first one demonstrated the capability of the ingredient to be a natural alternative of the synthetic vitamin K1 oxide in attenuating the signs originated of the eye contour, specifically eyebags and dark circles pigmentation. The second clinical study demonstrated the
flash effect of the ingredient in just 40 minutes by increasing elasticity (+20%), and moisture (+15%). Newin vitro tests revealed an increase in protein expression implied in the cell adhesion of the epidermal cells (Figures 4A and 4B), and an increased production of dermal proteins: collagen (tenfold increase) and elastin (1.57-fold increase) (Figures 5A and 5B). New results reveal an antioxidant capacity in
terms of peroxyl radicals scavenging of the eye contour ingredient at 3% of 81.4 mmol Trolox equivalent/g, values like those reached by bakuchiol.8 The two upcycling processes lead to the
production of four active ingredients, following the ‘sustainabeautly’ approach: restoring beauty with sustainable processes. Those are only two examples of the
A
1000 800 600 400 200 0
upcycling process carried out to produce the marine ingredients, in which the residue ‘pellet fraction’ coming from the ethanolic extraction is used to obtain other high-value ingredients. The active ingredients obtained from the ‘sustainabeautly’ approach showed amazing quantitative and qualitative (visible) cosmetic efficacy.
Conclusions ‘Sustainabeautly’ is the link between creating ingredients to repair the damage caused by climate change in the skin, under a sustainable point of view, and taking care of the environment. Natural cosmetic actives can be produced
in an environmentally sound way through a sustainable upstream (raw material production process) and downstream (transformation of raw materials into actives) production processing.
References 1. Masaki H. Role of antioxidants in the skin: anti-aging effects. Journal of Dermatological Science. 2010; 58(2), 85–90
2. Wimmerova L, Keken Z, Solcova O, Vavrova K. A comparative analysis of environmental impacts of operational phases of three selected microalgal cultivation systems. Sustainability. 2022; 15(1), 769
Tenfold increase collagen I
*** B
200 150 100 50 0
C-
3% eye contour ingredient
increase elastin **
1.57-fold PC
3. Jeevanandam J, Harun MR, Lau SY, Sewu DD, Danquah MK. Microalgal biomass generation via electroflotation: A cost- effective dewatering technology. Applied Sciences (Basel, Switzerland). 2020; 10(24), 9053
4. Herrero M, Ibáñez E. Green processes and sustainability: An overview on the extraction of high added-value products from seaweeds and microalgae. The Journal of Supercritical Fluids. 2015; 96, 211–216
5. Sharma C, Deutsch JM. Upcycling in the context of biotechnology-based solutions for food quality, loss, and consumer perception. Current Opinion in Biotechnology. 2023; 81(102920), 102920
6. De la Roche et al. Marine holobionts: Novel multi-functionals. Personal Care Global. April 2022; 95-98
7. De la Roche, Aguila & Guzmán. Marine saccharides: recovering ageing skin. Personal Care Global. April 2023; 55-59
8. Hong et al. Bakuchol compositions for treatment of post inflammatory hyperpgmentation. United States Patent Application Publication.
Pub.No: US 2012/0201769 A1. 1-7
9. Águila, De la Roche & Barata. Nannoplankton bioactive for eye contour repair. Personal Care Global. March 2024; 67-70
C-
3% eye contour ingredient
Figure 5: Dermal proteins expression in HDFc cells using the eye contour ingredient. A: Collagen type I and B: Elastin. C-: basal medium culture without the active ingredient. Replicates = 2. Student’s test. *: 0.05 > p ≥ 0.01; **: 0.01 > p ≥ 0.001.
PERSONAL CARE September 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Collagen type I production (%)
β-catenin expression (%)
Elastin production (%)
Plakoglobin expression (%)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88
