FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
ingredient it is also stable over a long period of time. In order to study the effect of the surfactant
type by polymer concentration on viscosity, two sulfate-free chassis were studied (chassis 1: 5.0% active Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, 3% active Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 2% active Coco-glucoside and chassis 2: 2.0% active Glutamate, 5% active Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 3% active Coco-glucoside). Results show that with isethionate
surfactants, there is an excellent viscosity response while with difficult to thicken glutamate chassis, a good response was observed (Figure 6).
Performance with back-acid thickening technique The performance of the novel ingredient was also tested when using the back-acid thickening technique, which could help increase viscosity and yield value at a specific polymer concentration or could help decrease polymer concentration to get the targeted performance. Tested on a traditional surfactant chassis
(SLES/CAPB) at 2.3% TS novel ingredient, the back-acid thickening technique boosts viscosity while improving clarity (Figure 7). The novel ingredient was also tested on a
sulfate-free chassis (SLMI/CAPB/CG (5/3/2)) at 1.5% TS and 2% TS. The back-acid thickening technique will help to improve clarity and performance in sulfate-free chassis.
75 10%TS SLMI/CAPB/CG ■ 10%TSD Glu/CAPB/CG ■
14000 12000 10000 8000 6000 4000 2000 0
0.0 0.5
Polymer Concentration (%TS) 1.5
1.0 2.0 2.5
Figure 6: Viscosity within two sulfate-free chassis. Sulfate-free chassis composition: 10% TS SLMI/ CAPB/CG and 10% TS Glu/CAPB/CG at pH 5.5-6.0. *Brookfield viscosity at 20 rpm (mPa·s)
Synergistic benefits with other thickeners The addition of co-thickeners leads to increasing viscosity and good clarity at low use levels of this novel ingredient (Figure 8). In Figure 9, it can be seen that the addition
of the co-thickener 1 and 2 helps boosting viscosity in a similar manner but co-thickener 1 leads to slightly better clarity than co-thickener 2 in this surfactant chassis.
The perfect rheology modifier for skin cleansing and hair care Suitable for sulfated and sulfate-free surfactant chassis in skin cleansing and hair care formulations, this novel ingredient has a smooth, honey-like flow that provides a light, soft sensory experience on the skin. It performs similarly to synthetic benchmarks/acrylates copolymers on the market, with good foam volume, creamy foam texture and pH flexibility
www.personalcaremagazine.com
September 2024 PERSONAL CARE
Viscosity* (mPa·S)
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