INTERVIEW Tim Probert – Editor, Personal Care Global


Andrea Maltagliati is General Secretary of Brussels-based trade association European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients (EFfCI). Here, Andrea talks to editor Tim Probert about the regulatory state of affairs ahead of EFfCI’s annual conference on 25-26 September


Tim Probert (TP): Tell me about the history of the European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients (EFfCI). Andrea Maltagliati (AM): EFfCI was established in 2000 with the French [Ingrecos], Italian [Aispec MAPIC] and German [TEGEWA] national cosmetic ingredient associations after it became clear that national associations alone are not enough to represent the industry at a European level. In time, the British Chemicals


Association and the Swiss [HCi] and Spanish [AEIC] national association also came on board. As a federation, we now represent six national associations and around 135 personal care ingredient companies who are members. Member companies must be


a producer or service provider in the cosmetics market with a European-based legal entity. In the case of companies who


are not based in a country where there is a national association, it is possible to become EFfCI member directly, but they are exceptions, and they will remain exceptions. The goal of EFfCI is to remain a federation of associations.


TP: What is your personal background? AM: I am a chemist! I have a degree in chemistry from the University of Milan, and then I started my journey in cosmetics - around 25 years ago - in the lab. I was a quality controller, a technical director and then I moved to sales as a technical salesman and then business development. The companies I worked for


before EFfCI include Zschimmer & Schwarz and Roelmi HPC. I became General Secretary of EFfCI in January 2023.


TP: What is EFfCI’s mission statement? AM: The mission of the federation


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is to represent cosmetic ingredient producers at a European level. We have a relationship with all the stakeholders and the authorities. The latter is mainly the


European Commission, but not only do we talk with the different departments of the European Commission to represent the interests of our members, we also talk with other associations that represent our customers or partners, such as Cosmetics Europe, Personal Care Product Council (PCPC) in the US, CAFFCI in China, KCA in Korea, JCIA in Japan and so on.


TP: Which regulatory issues have the EFfCI been working on recently? AM:Most recently, French authorities have voiced concerns about the use of octocrylene, one of the most popular and widely used UV filters, in sunscreen products. So, we alerted EFfCI members


about France’s intention to introduce restrictions and interested members created a task force to discuss the problem and to see what can be done to defend the use of octocrylene. While we always respect


the rules in terms of the health and safety of cosmetic workers, consumers and the environment, sometimes we have to defend ingredients due to the impact on the industry. There are so many formulations


containing octocrylene, it is one of the most popular filters on the market, and there would be a huge impact on all the supply chain, from the ingredient producers to the finished products.


TP: The EFfCi annual conference takes place in Brussels on 25- 26 September. Are there any overarching themes at this year’s conference? AM:On the first day is the


INTERVIEW


Watching the radar


members’ conference. The annual conference is very important moment for EFfCI because it’s the only occasion in which the majority of the members have the opportunity to meet. It’s an important opportunity for members to be in the same room to discuss cosmetic ingredient issues, and for our working groups to present to the audience. We have eight expert working


groups: Regulatory Affairs and Product Safety; International Relations; Ingredients of Natural Origin; Good Manufacturing Practice; Colorants; Toxicology; Polymers; and Preservatives. These are very important


topics that are not only discussed


in Europe; they normally have a resonance worldwide. Whatever we do in Europe, sooner or later it tends to happen in the US, China and other parts of the global cosmetics market. So, on the first day of the


conference, the members and expert working groups will discuss and share information, exchange opinion and comments and so on. The second day [26 September] is an open conference, a format that we introduced for the first time last year. It has quickly become a highlight for attendees. There will be presentations


from Erin Hill, President and CEO of International Cooperation on Cosmetic Safety; John Chave,


September 2024 PERSONAL CARE


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