40 HAIR CARE
TABLE 1: SOLUBILITY COMPARISON OF OLIVE-DERIVED ESTER AND DIMETHICONE (20CST) VERSUS COMMON NATURAL OIL-BASED SOLVENTS
Ingredient Mineral Oil
Rice Bran Oil Macadamia Oil Corn oil
Sunflower Oil
Isopropyl Palmitate Caprylic Triglyceride
Fision EcoSil
✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔ ✔
Dimethicone (20cst)
✔
✔
industry standard silicone, dimethicone (20 cst), a solubility comparison study was run. Solubility of 50% weight by weight of the
olive-derived ester in seven popular natural oil-based solvents was observed and compared to the solubility of dimethicone in those same ingredients.
Results The upcycled silicone alternative has better compatibility with natural oil-based solvents compared to dimethicone. In serums, olive- derived ester allows for a broader number of lipophilic hair care ingredients to be used compared to silicone. Table 1 shows the seven natural oil-based solvents and their compatibility with olive-derived ester and dimethicone.
Conclusion Fision EcoSil is an excellent naturally derived alternative to traditional silicones due to its comparable performance to cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone. In hair care, it significantly improved wet combing ease showing comparable performance to cyclopentasiloxane. Furthermore, it also enhanced shine and lustre. Hair sensory evaluations revealed
similar benefits in smoothness, detangling, manageability, and conditioning, aligning closely with cyclopentasiloxane. In skin care, the olive-derived ester matched dimethicone in terms of smoothness, softness, and moisturization. Furthermore, this upcycled silicone
alternative exhibited superior compatibility with natural oil-based solvents, allowing for it to be used in a broader range of formulations.
References 1. Kostic A. Silicone in cosmetics and their impact on the environment. Cos Active J. 2021; 1:34-39
2. Katie Scheafer. Silicones in Hair Care: Making innovative Solutions Possible. Cosmetic & Toiletries. November 2008
3. Megan McIntyre, Do Silicones Deserve Their Bed Rep. Beauty Independent, June 2019
4. “The EU Further Restricts the Use of Silicones D5 and D6 in Cosmetics.”
COSlaw.Eu - Guiding through EU Cosmetics Regulations, 29 May 2024
5. Dia Stron Limited MTT 175 Andover UK. 6. Samba Hair System Bosa Nova Vision 5777 W. Century Blvd. CA 90045
PERSONAL CARE September 2024 Softness Moisturized
Figure 6: Skin sensory evaluation comparing 2% olive-derived ester versus 2% dimethicone in a placebo cream
www.personalcaremagazine.com Smoothness PC Uniform Film
Fision EcoSil Spreadability Shine
7 6 5 4 3 2 1
0 Protective Film Greasiness
Placebo
Figure 5: Hair shine images after five applications of 1% olive-derived ester and placebo shampoo treatments on UV-damaged Indian hair
2% Fision EcoSil ■ 2% Dimethicone 20cst ■ Absorption
Tackiness
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