UPCYCLED INGREDIENTS


53


Combat inflammaging with upcycled mandarin extract


Giovanna Grigolon, Kathrin Nowak, Franziska Wandrey, Fred Zülli – Mibelle Biochemistry ABSTRACT


‘Inflammaging’, a term coined by Professor Franceschi two decades ago, refers to a persistent, low-grade inflammatory state that develops with age due to a combination of chronological ageing, intrinsic factors, and external stressors. As we age, the body’s capacity to counter inflammation diminishes, leading to this chronic inflammatory state, which contributes to visible signs of ageing skin and age-related pathologies, creating a vicious cycle. In fact, this inflammatory state reduces the energy available to produce essential skin molecules like hyaluronic acid and collagen, levels of which are observed to decrease in ageing skin. Therefore, boosting energy to enhance the production of these vital molecules can significantly benefit the skin.


Both intrinsic and extrinsic stressors contribute to inflammation and accelerate the ageing process by generating reactive oxygen species (ROS).1


ROS activate the transcription factor


NF-κB, which translocates into the nucleus upon activation, and in turn triggers the transcription of various proinflammatory genes, including some encoding cytokines, chemokines, and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs).2 In the skin, this process leads to inflammation and the breakdown of essential extracellular matrix components like collagen, resulting in a loss of skin elasticity and firmness


Young skin


and, ultimately, sagging skin. Consequently, controlling NF-κB activity becomes pivotal in mitigating inflammaging (Figure 1). 3,4


Upcycled Chios mandarins The Greek island of Chios hosts a time- honored, organic mandarin cultivation. The gentle climate nurtures an abundance of essential oils and antioxidants in these mandarins, which have yellow-orange skin and soft, slightly orange-coloured flesh. Despite deviating from today’s market standards due to their numerous seeds,


Old, stressed skin


l Low-grade chronic inflammation l Reddened and irritated skin l Skin thinning


l Loss of elasticity and firmness l Breakdown of collagen fibers


Chios mandarins are highly valued for their exceptional and intense aromatic properties.5 In a traditional, small distillery, both the juice and peel of these mandarins undergo a gentle distillation process to create fragrances. The remaining thick peel pulp is a unique


leftover material, used by Mibelle Biochemistry to extract valuable antioxidants through a gentle, water-based upcycling process, creating a skin-specific active ingredient from these special mandarins (Figure 2). From literature, it is known that


antioxidants derived from citrus fruits have the potential to suppress the immune regulation by NF-κB signaling.6


We therefore tested the


Chios mandarin extract on its potential to combat inflammaging.


Inflammaging


mandarin active


Chios lProinflammatory molecules Figure 1: Counteracting inflammaging www.personalcaremagazine.com


Methods Quantification of NF-κB activation in human dermal fibroblasts Human dermal fibroblasts were incubated under normal conditions and then acclimated for 24 hours under low-serum conditions. Subsequently, cells were pretreated with either Chios mandarin extract or dexamethasone for 24 hours or left untreated. Dexamethasone is a reference compound, and it is known for its anti-inflammatory potential. To induce inflammatory stress, PMA (phorbol 12-myristate 13-acetate) and calcium ionophore (CI) were added to the fibroblasts


September 2024 PERSONAL CARE


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