MARINE INGREDIENTS
uniquely important chemical normally found in abundance of animal tissues vital for the development of extracellular matrix in this species. We are able to utilise this newfound knowledge to create a cutting edge new active for cosmetic applications.
Sulphated glycosaminoglycans: structure, functions, and applications Sulphated glycosaminoglycans are long, unbranched polysaccharides consisting of repeating disaccharide units. Each unit typically contains an amino sugar, e.g. glucosamine or galactosamine, and a uronic acid, e.g. glucuronic acid or iduronic acid. The defining feature of sGAGs is the
presence of sulphate groups attached to the sugar residues, which impart unique biochemical properties.5
sGAGs are integral to
numerous physiological processes, as detailed below.
Cell signaling and regulation sGAGs interact with growth factors, cytokines, and enzymes, modulating cellular responses and signaling pathways. Heparan sulphate, for example, binds to fibroblast growth factors, influencing cell proliferation and differentiation.
Figure 2: Harvested Sarcothalia circumcinta ready for processing
Wound healing and tissue repair sGAGs play a pivotal role in wound healing by promoting cell migration, proliferation, and matrix remodeling. Dermatan sulphate, in particular, is involved in the regulation of collagen deposition and scar formation.4 sGAGs are similar in the non-sulphated
hyaluronic acid which comes in a wide range of different molecular weights. The different molecular weights of sGAGs can penetrate the epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissues to deliver both hydration and nutrient to the cells. The hydrating and anti-inflammatory
properties of sGAGs make them invaluable ingredients in skin care products. They help maintain skin moisture, reduce wrinkles, and improve overall skin health.
Figure 3: The seaweed and herbal extract 3D bioactive network
Building the 3D Scaffolding Network – New Zealand Black Fern While sGAGs are important molecules that brings about hydration, we have also discovered
ABSORBANCE SPECTRUM
3.2 2.8 2.4 2
1.6 1.2
0.8 0.4 0
-0.4 -0.8
280 300 320 340 360 380 Figure 5: Spectrum of 10% dilution of the algae extract
www.personalcaremagazine.com September 2024 PERSONAL CARE 400 420 440 WAVELENGTH IN NM 460 480 500 520 540 560 580 600
69
OCEANDERMXRESTORE & PROTECT RELATIVE TOTAL ANTIOXIDANT CAPACITY
CUPRAC (CUPric Reducing Antioxidant Capacity) method
700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0
100% 86%
Trolox standard
ODRP Figure 4: Total antioxidant capacity result
that the New Zealand species Cyathea medullaris (commonly known as mamaku by the indigenous Māori people) can help to build a strengthened biopolymer network. Mamaku is not only a symbol of New
Zealand, but it is also New Zealand’s largest fern species. It thrives in the water-drenched and humid lowland forests. For centuries, the Māori people of New Zealand have used Mamaku for therapeutic purposes to treat the skin including using a poultice made from mamaku was applied to wounds and infections; using its young shoots to treat boils and its bruised pith (soft inner part of the plant stem) was used as a dressing for sore eyes.6 Mamaku meristem contains a unique, water
soluble, high molecular weight, viscoelastic three-dimensional polysaccharide that exhibits unique and complex rheological properties, uncommon in natural polymers. More recent research has found that more than 80% of the meristems contain essential polysaccharides, mainly Glucuronic Acid, Galactose, Mannose, Xylose and Rhamnose.7 This unique biodynamic network provides a vibrant, multifunctional viscoelastic matrix able to shield the skin against transepidermal water loss and contributes to immediate lifting and firming benefits.
<Algae+water 8min US (x1) Raw Data Spectrum Cuvette 7> ■ Algae+water 10min US (x1) Raw Data Spectrum Cuvette 8 ■ Algae+water 12min US (x1) Raw Data Spectrum Cuvette 9 ■
0D
Trolox concentration (µg/mL)
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