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48 FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS


Why natural betaine is an upcycled powerhouse


Carole Gherardi - IFF


Waste reduction is one of the most important environmentally sustainable values for consumers. According to a study by Deloitte, 48% of surveyed UK consumers have chosen brands that practice waste reduction when deciding to shop sustainably for beauty and personal care products.1 For many beauty and personal care brands,


achieving zero waste and circular economy goals can prove challenging, and require a layered approach. Upcycled ingredients represent a powerful tool to reduce the environmental impact of products and tell an important sustainability story at the same time. Upcycling is the process of transforming byproducts, unwanted or waste materials into new products of a higher quality or value than the original. In general, consumers show positive


perception towards products prepared from upcycled waste. For example, in a report by Mintel, 65% of German women surveyed are interested in using beauty and personal care products made from plant waste.2


In another


research, studies also indicate a strong positive response in terms of attitudes towards food waste reduction.3 However, new product development data


does not reflect this positive perception with only 1% of new skincare launches featuring an upcycled ingredient claim in 2023.4


While there


are many reasons why consumers might be hesitant to embrace beauty and personal care products featuring an upcycled ingredient claim including perceived quality, lack of awareness, or price perception, we highlight below two key consumers’ concerns that might hinder the adoption of products featuring upcycled ingredient claims.


Efficacy In the beauty and personal care industry, the surge in consumer demand for sustainable and eco-friendly products is undeniable. This shift has underscored the significance of integrating sustainable materials into product formulation, leading to an increase in the availability of natural and biobased ingredients within the marketplace. However, for both customers and consumers,


the performance of these products is still paramount when it comes to their purchasing decisions. A notable 54% of US consumers actively research product ingredients,5


not merely


out of curiosity, but with the intent to ascertain the product’s efficacy. Consumers want products that work


PERSONAL CARE September 2024


effectively and deliver results. As such, they would expect upcycled ingredients to still deliver the same benefits as their counterpart ingredients. It is clear that unless upcycled ingredients can meet or surpass the performance of traditional materials, they will fall short of fully meeting the expectations and requirements of customers and consumers. The challenge lies in balancing eco-


consciousness with the high standards of product functionality that consumers have come to expect.


Certification and standards Although the concept of upcycling is gaining traction, the term ‘upcycling’ is not as familiar as the term ‘natural’. Upcycling aims to create products of equal or higher quality or value than the original materials. Currently, there is no single, globally recognized standard for upcycling. However, this landscape is changing.


Emerging standards for upcycling are beginning to take shape, and will help consumers verify the quality and sustainability of products made with upcycled ingredients. The absence of such standards and


certifications, particularly in the beauty and personal care industry, has previously led to consumer confusion and scepticism. Yet


with these emerging standards, the industry is taking a significant step towards eliminating this uncertainty and building trust among consumers. Despite these challenges, the careful


selection of upcycled ingredients can help differentiate a brand’s formulations and reduce waste at the same time, appealing to both eco- conscious and discerning consumers. This article discusses natural betaine, an upcycled active ingredient extracted from sugar beet processing side stream, and its proven moisturizing and protection benefits in hair and skin care.


Natural betaine: an upcycled powerhouse In Europe, millions of tonnes of sugar beet are harvested every year. Sugar beet plays a significant role in the world’s sugar production, as well as ensuring both economic stability and food security. Traditional sugar production from sugar beet yields a byproduct known as sugar beet molasses. With every 1,000kg of sugar produced, about


285kg of sugar beet molasses is produced as a side product.6


Sugar beet molasses are rich in


sugar content, and commonly used in ethanol fermentation, yeast production, and as animal feed.


With IFF’s proprietary desugarization technology, more sugar can be extracted


www.personalcaremagazine.com


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