38 HAIR CARE
Results The results of the wet combing tests indicated significant improvement in wet combing ease with the use of the conditioner containing 2% olive-derived ester compared to the placebo conditioner. The placebo conditioner resulted in a 27.11% reduction in wet combing force compared to the initial measurement with no statistical significance. The conditioner with 2% olive-derived ester
showed a 47.42% reduction (* p<0.05 versus placebo and ** p<0.01 versus baseline), while the conditioner with 2% cyclopentasiloxane showed a 50.63% reduction (* p <0.05 versus placebo and ***p<0.001 versus baseline). Although cyclopentasiloxane provided the
greatest improvement in wet combing ease by offering slip to the hair, making it easier to detangle and comb, the olive-derived ester demonstrated comparable benefit after five applications. This indicates that the upcycled silicone alternative is an effective ingredient for improving wet combing in hair, comparable to the commonly used silicone. A graphical representation of the percentage
change from initial wet combing force can be seen in Figure 1.
Hair sensory evaluation A hair sensory evaluation was conducted with a panel of twelve people, looking at parameters including: smoothness/silkiness, softness of ends, ease of detangling, frizz, build-up, manageability, shine/gloss, conditioning, and overall preference. First, virgin blonde hair tresses were clarified with 10% SLES solution before being air dried in ambient conditions at room temperature. The tresses were then washed with a placebo shampoo and split into three groups. Group 1 was treated with a placebo
conditioner, Group 2 was treated with a placebo conditioner with 2% olive-derived ester, and Group 3 was treated with a placebo conditioner with 2% cyclopentasiloxane. In a single blind study, twelve panelists were then asked to rank
Liked the best **
Conditioning +
8 7 6 5 4 3 2
Placebo ■ Fision EcoSil ■ Cyclopentasiloxane ■ 0
-10 -20 -30 -40 -50
** *
*** *
-27.11
-47.42 -50.63
Figure 1: Percentage change in wet combing force from initial after five applications of placebo, 2% olive-derived ester and 2% cyclopentasiloxane in conditioner formulations on virgin blonde hair
each sensory attribute from 1 to 10 on a low to high scale.
Results The results show that the upcycled silicone alternative has similar consumer perceivable sensory benefits compared to cyclopentasiloxane. They perform similarly in overall consumer preference, smoothness, detangling, manageability, and conditioning. Figure 2 shows the compiled and averaged
data of the panel’s evaluations of the placebo conditioner, 2% olive-derived ester conditioner and the 2% cyclopentasiloxane conditioner with regards to each parameter. The results show that the olive-derived ester and cyclopentasiloxane conditioner groups are statistically similar. Additionally, when compared to the
placebo conditioner group, both olive- derived ester and cyclopentasiloxane showed statistically significant effects on hair in terms of manageability and smoothness/silkiness (*
Smoother/Silkier
Placebo ■ Fision EcoSil ■ Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) ■
Softness of Ends
p<0.05 versus placebo), detangling and overall preference (** p<0.01 versus placebo), and conditioning (+ p<0.1 versus placebo). This indicates that the upcycled silicone
alternative is a comparable substitute for the sensory benefits that are characteristic to cyclopentasiloxane in hair care formulations.
Shine and lustre improvement on UV-damaged hair The upcycled silicone alternative’s ability to enhance shine and lustre was evaluated on hair damaged by UV rays. Indian hair tresses were clarified using 10% SLES solution to remove impurities.
The clarified hair tresses were then air dried
and placed in the Q-Sun UV irradiation chamber for 96 hours to induce damage. Initial readings of hair shine and lustre were taken before further treatment. Readings were measured using the Bossa Nova Samba Hair System.6 Next, the hair tresses were washed with
either a placebo shampoo or a shampoo containing 1% olive-derived ester. Each shampoo was applied through five wash cycles and swatches were allowed to air dry in ambient conditions. Subsequently, shine and lustre measurements and images were taken.
Ease of Detangling **
Shine/Gloss Frizz
Results The study demonstrated a significant improvement in hair shine and lustre with the use of the shampoo containing 1% olive-derived ester compared to the placebo shampoo through both instrumental analyses and visual assessment. The placebo shampoo improved shine, which is defined as the first reflection of light on the hair surface, by 12.08% (****p<0.0001 versus initial), while the upcycled silicone alternative shampoo showed an 18.03% improvement (**p<0.01 versus placebo and ****p<0.0001 versus initial). Figure 3 shows the graphical representation
Manageability *
Build-up *, **,
+ indicate level of statistical significance
Figure 2: Hair sensory evaluation comparing placebo, 2% olive-derived ester, and 2% cyclopentasiloxane in a conditioner formulation
PERSONAL CARE September 2024
of the percentage change from the initial shine readings.
The placebo shampoo improved lustre, which is determined by a calculation involving shine, chroma, and diffused light, by 16.33%
www.personalcaremagazine.com
% Change from initial
Better conditioning
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