Volume 25 Issue 8
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CONTENTS
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REGULARS 5
7 9 Editor’s Comment
Cover Story: Lipoid Kosmetik AG News
83 Formulations
Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES 16 Site Visit: Silab
As it celebrates its 40th anniversary, editor Tim Probert visits Silab’s 75,000 m2 headquarters near Brive-la-Gaillarde in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region of south-central France. Here, he learns the secrets of Silab’s considerable success in cosmetic active ingredients
21 Interview: Watching the radar
Andrea Maltagliati is General Secretary of Brussels-based trade association European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients (EFfCI). Here, Andrea talks about the current regulatory state of affairs ahead of EFfCI’s annual conference in the Belgian capital on 25-26 September
25 Olive oil upcycled ‘surf-active’ for skin and hair
Italian active maker Kalichem describes a novel active designed from the need imposed by modern trends to adapt to the standards of eco-sustainability, biodegradability and selection of clean sources in a critical category of raw materials, like surfactants
31 Product development for high performance, low cost
Innospec demonstrates a water-saving, multifunctional product that can be used as a 2-in-1 shampoo and conditioner and a body wash, and how the inclusion of two conditioning agents reduces the combing force on hair, reduces static and improves hair alignment
37 Investigating naturally derived silicone alternative
TRI-K presents a naturally derived alternative to traditional silicones that delivers comparable performance to cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone. In hair care, it is shown to significantly improve wet combing ease, showing comparable performance to cyclopentasiloxane. Furthermore, it also enhanced shine and lustre
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September 2024 PERSONAL CARE 43 Holistic beauty: new era for hair care
DSM-Firmenich introduces a novel concept combining scalp science and aromatherapy that integrates natural, sustainably sourced bioactives with mind-benefiting fragrance, to create a holistic hair and scalp care experience
48 Why natural betaine is an upcycled powerhouse
The use of upcycled ingredients in beauty and personal care products presents a promising avenue for brands to align with the growing consumer demand for sustainable practices. IFF shows how, despite certain challenges, upcycled ingredients like a natural betaine derived from sugar beet, are not only meeting but exceeding consumer expectations on efficacy and safety
53 Combat inflammaging with upcycled mandarin extract
Mibelle Biochemistry describes an active ingredient derived from Chios mandarins markedly increases the firmness and density of the skin. This upcycled ingredient is based on the peel paste of organic mandarins discarded from the distillation process of fragrance production
58 Exploring the power of upcycled tamarind
Lamberti presents a novel polymer obtained from upcycled tamarind. The article describes its benefits in hair care, including superior conditioning, detangling, shine, smoothness, softness, anti-static effects, and foam- enhancement, comparing the novel tamarind derivative to Polyquaternium-10
63 ‘Sustainabeautly’: merging sustainability and beauty
MC Actives describes marine ingredients it has developed to tap into the concept of ‘sustainabeautly’: a link between creating ingredients to repair the damage caused by climate change in the skin, under a sustainable point of view, and taking care of the environment
68 Mobilising the power of New Zealand red seaweed
Organic Bioactives presents a novel, natural active ingredient that harnesses New Zealand red seaweed, which has been found to not only be a dynamo on its own to achieve superior hydration, but when combinedly extracted with additional New Zealand botanicals, offers superior support for skin care
73 Meeting demands for modern rheology modifiers
While consumers desire natural products, they can also prefer the sensory and aesthetics of traditional synthetic products. Here, Lubrizol presents a polymer that offers sustainable characteristics to meet the growing demands of the market coupled with the performance attributes customers expect from synthetic rheology modifiers
79 How Polycitronellol enhances fragrances
P2 Science describes a new fragrance enhancer derived from renewable sources using a process based on the principles of green chemistry. Using gas chromatography measurements and sensory observations, the article shows that this material prolongs the duration of fragrance perception more than competitive alternatives
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