50 FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
Mildness Betaine is a mild ingredient, an amino acid derivative and osmolyte, naturally present in our skin and our cells. Human clinical patch tests have been conducted for betaine up to 10% concentrations and no skin irritation reactions were observed in any of the studies.8 In toiletries products, it can contribute to
mitigate skin irritation from surfactants. In a patch test (Figure 5), it was found
3.5% natural betaine significantly reduces the irritating effect of SLES by -44%. As an osmolyte, betaine helps protect skin proteins from denaturation by surfactants, as demonstrated by a Zein test in vitro.
Certification and standards Brands looking to use upcycled ingredients may need to navigate regulations and legitimize food waste side streams as reputable and reliable sources for beauty care ingredients and ensure that such products are manufactured to the highest standards. Genencare OSMS BA natural betaine is one
of the first ingredients in the cosmetics active category to be upcycled certified by Where Food Comes From. Launched in June 2021, the Upcycled Certified™ Program is the first global third-party certification for upcycled foods and ingredients. Products and ingredients that are Upcycled
Certified must maintain a key set of criteria; they are made from surplus food or food byproducts, are traceable via verifiable supply chains, and have a positive impact on the environment. The Upcycled Certified Standard is a detailed framework that adds credibility and integrity to the certifying process. Developed by a global group of industry
agents, retailers, academics, and consumer advocates, the standard serves as a set of requirements to promote alignment between businesses, brands and consumers. By definition, the Standard creates a uniformed message that enables transparency and drives a sense of enthusiasm around the value of upcycled products. Besides being upcycled certified, IFF’s
natural betaine is 100% natural according to ISO 16128 (NI = 1) and carries the following
4.5 4.0 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 0.0
Figure 4: Cortical scanning fluorescence microscopy showing less damaged sites on hair after pre-treatment with shampoo containing 4% natural betaine
certifications: Ecocert, Cosmos, and NATRUE approved.
Conclusion The use of upcycled ingredients in beauty and personal care products presents a promising avenue for brands to align with the growing consumer demand for sustainable practices. Despite certain challenges, upcycled ingredients like Genencare OSMS BA, a natural betaine derived from sugar beet, are not only meeting but exceeding consumer expectations on efficacy and safety. Being a major osmolyte, natural betaine plays a crucial role in maintaining
■ 24h ■ 48h
cellular hydration and protecting cells from environmental stress. Its benefits in hair and skincare are manifold, ranging from hair strengthening to skin barrier protection. With IFF’s innovative technology, upcycled
natural betaine not only enhances resource efficiency but also aligns with sustainable practices by utilizing what is already available, thus negating the need for additional land. This approach represents a significant stride towards a more sustainable and circular economy in the beauty and personal care industry.
References 1. Deloitte. Shifting sands: Are consumers still embracing sustainability? Changes and key findings in sustainability and consumer behavior in 2021. March 2021
2. Mintel. Boost sustainability in BPC with recycled ingredients. August 2021
* * * 2 3.5 5 * 7 *
GENENCARE® OSMS BA concentration (%) in a 10% SLES solution 0
* Significant differences compared to SLES 10% solution withouy betaine; p<0.05 Toxicol laboratories, Ltd, Test Ref V3-V10-8811 (1988) Figure 5: A patch test showing that no skin irritation reactions observed for up to 7% natural betaine
PERSONAL CARE September 2024
3. Altintzoglou T et al. Influence of the involvement in food waste reduction on attitudes towards sustainable products containing seafood by-products. Journal of Cleaner Production. 20 February 2021; 285
4. Mintel. South Korean Skincare 2024: Market Trends
5. Mintel. Meet efficacy needs with sustainable hair ingredients, 2023
6. Feedipedia. Beet molasses. https://www.
feedipedia.org/node/711
7. Takabe T, Tanaka Y, Takabe T. In: Betaine: Chemistry, Analysis, Function and Effects. Ed.: Preedy VR. The Royal Society of Chemistry. 2015, pp. 9-28
8. Genencare OSMS BA product declaration
www.personalcaremagazine.com EVOLUTION OF THE TEWL OVER FOUR WEEKS 3% GENENCARE® OSMS BA■
0.5 0.0
-0.5 -1.0 -1.5 -2.0 -2.5
Baseline TREATMENT PERIOD REGRESSION PERIOD Control = baseline
* * Day 3 Day 29 Day 31 Day 35 * Significant differences p<0.05 GENEncare OSMS BA versus Control
Figure 3: Long-term moisturization clinical study showed that 3% natural betaine significantly reduces TEWL over four weeks of daily use
*
PC
Irritation score
Δ TEWL
-44%
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