64 MARINE INGREDIENTS
of the natural marine environment of the phytoplankton holobionts: a combination of phytoplankton cells and its microbiota. Applying bioengineering, we cultivate
holobionts in a green-lab grow, providing the necessary conditions to enhance the production of bioactive molecules. PBT saves energy (-70%) compared to traditional cultivation systems by using low-energy pumps. PBT also saves water (-50%) compared to
traditional cultivation systems by recirculating it. Furthermore, water use for cleaning is not necessary after cultivation while the traditional reactors need to be cleaned. PBT also negates the use of antibiotics and chemical products, leading to less pollution when compared with traditional technologies. PBT technology allows to grow sustainable
holobionts taking care of planet Earth while producing the raw material that is used in the following step: the biomass processing for active production. The above makes PBT a sustainable technology, with low environmental impact, in contrast to the old technologies used to grow phytoplankton.
Downstream processing: ingredient fabrication After phytoplankton holobiont cultivation, it is collected and processed in our laboratories following environmental-friendly techniques. This process includes: i) bioactive molecules extraction, and ii) final product fabrication. Sustainability can be understood as a
rational way of improving processes to maximize production while minimizing the environmental impact.4
Under this perspective, we process
phytoplankton holobionts using safe and environmentally friendly solvents such as water and 96% ethanol; upcycling solvents for successive bioactive molecules extraction; and valorising residual biomass pellets after extractions to create new, upcycled ingredients. In this way, our ingredients are focused on
achieving the maximum sustainability concept, towards a zero-way approach.
What is an upcycling process? Upcycling is a creative response to extract additional value from what would otherwise be wasted.5
We pursued a zero-waste approach A
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
-10 C+ C-
Figure 1: Cosmetic upcycling process 1
by designing extraction processes in which the waste is revalorised and converted into a new, valuable ingredient with cosmetic efficacies. We have developed two upcycling processes.
Upcycling process 1 Epilithic holobiont biomass is produced and processed in our laboratory. The first step is an ethanolic extraction from which we obtain the first active ingredient: the whitening-antioxidant active, and a residue (pellet fraction 1). The pellet fraction 1 is then used for a
second extraction (aqueous extraction), obtaining a second, anti-ageing active ingredient based on osmolytes, and another residue (pellet fraction 2), that is under research (Figure 1). After this process, ethanol is recovered for successive extractions.
B +36% +27%
90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
1% Osmo- ingredient
2% Osmo- ingredient
-10 C+ C- +76%
Cosmetic efficacy of the ingredients coming from the upcycling process 1 The first ingredient produced in this process is the whitening-antioxidant active. As stated in the April 2022 issue of Personal Care Global,6 the ingredient reduces the pigmentation by 30% on spots in summer, and its mechanism of action was demonstrated by 51% of tyrosinase inhibition. After producing this ingredient, a pellet
(pellet fraction 1) is used for the second aqueous extraction producing the anti-ageing ingredient based on osmolytes (hereafter, the Osmo-ingredient). The cosmetic efficacy of this ingredient was described in the April 2023 issue of Personal Care Global.7 There are new results revealing the
high antioxidant capacity of this ingredient
+14%
1% Osmo- ingredient
2% Osmo- ingredient
Figure 2. A: Capacity of protection against lipid alteration by Reactive Species. p<0.05 Osmo-ingredient vs C-; C-: distilled water; C+: 0.03% Vitamin E analogue. B: Capacity of protection of the cellullar structure against protein alteration by glycosylation derived from oxidative and non-oxidative processes. p<0.05 Osmoingredient vs C-; C-distilled water; C+: 0.7% aminoguanidine
PERSONAL CARE September 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Anti-lipid peroxidation (%)
Protein anti-glycosylation (%)
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