76 FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
coupled with excellent rheology modification benefits. A sensory panel test with 13 panelists was
performed. Volunteers were asked to wash their hands using a formulation containing the novel ingredient and a formulation with acrylates copolymer. As can be seen from Figures 10 and 11, panelists perceived a superior foam volume and wet squeaky feel with the formulation containing the novel ingredient. Rinsibility and softness were also slightly better. This novel ingredient also suspends zinc
pyrithione (ZPT) and silicone emulsions at low use levels with efficient viscosity in hair care applications. Zinc Pyrithione can sometimes be difficult to stabilize. To determine the ability of this novel
ingredient to help stabilize ZPT a formulation containing 1.3% TS of polymer was developed. Results show that the novel ingredient brings the appropriate viscosity, helps with texture, and provides excellent ZPT suspending capabilities (Figure 12). This novel polymer also helps in silicone suspension, provides good visual aesthetics, and good texture, performing similar to acrylates copolymer (Figure 13). Thanks to this novel ingredient the formulation is also stable in a variety of conditions overtime.
Ease of use in skin cleansing and hair care formulations This novel polymer is easy to use with the ability to replace the fully synthetic acrylates copolymer in formulation. It is cold processable and provided in a liquid format that can be added up front to water before incorporating surfactants. Other ingredients like conditioners,
fragrances, perfumes and preservatives can then be added based on preference. Addition of salt or scrubs can be added at the end to help provide desired thickening and aesthetics. It is compatible with a wide range of sulfated
and sulfate-free surfactant chassis (anionic, nonionic and cationic), thickeners, opacifiers, oils, silicones, conditioning agents, anti-dandruff ingredients and active ingredients, among others.
Back Acid Thickening - Effect on viscosity
2800 2600 2400 2200 2000 1800 1600 1400 1200 1000
6.0 6.2 6.4
6.6 pH
140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0
6.0 6.2 6.4
6.6 pH
6.8 7.0 7.2
Figure 7: Impact on viscosity and turbidity after the back-acid thickening technique. Traditional sulfated chassis composition: 11.2% active Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 2.3% TS Cocamidopropyl Betaine at pH 6.5. *Brookfield viscosity at 20 rpm (mPa·s)
Microbiome friendly S. epidermidis was inoculated on an agar plate and different concentrations of the novel ingredient were added directly onto the plate and incubated for 24 hours. Water was used as a negative control since it has ‘no effect’ on the biome/S. epidermidis growth. As a positive control, a surfactant known to promote the inhibition of S. epidermidis growth
Properties Turbidity Viscosity Yield Value Appearance
Figure 8: 2.6% TS Novel ingredient, 0.9% TS co-thickener 1/co-thickener 2. Test performed on Clear Antipollution Sulfate-Free Shampoo with Charcoal Beads SH-0202 without the addition of beads to compare viscosity and clarity with and without the addition of a co-thickener. Sulfate-free surfactant blend: 12.1% TS (9.6/2.5). Novel ingredient: 2.6% TS. Co-thickener 1: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate, Propylene Glycol, Water. Co-thickener 2: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate, Propanediol. Sulfate-free surfactant blend: 12.1% TS (9.6/2.5)
PERSONAL CARE September 2024
was used. Growth inhibition areas around each sample were measured using an image analysis software.
The positive control showed a complete
inhibition of the growth of S. epidermidis. Nevertheless, the treatment with this novel ingredient behaved like water and showed to have no impact on the growth rate of S. epidermidis. With these results, it can be
Novel ingredient without co-thickener
23 2,050 50 Clear
Novel ingredient with co-thickener 1
9.8 4,500 44 Clear
Novel ingredient with co-thickener 2
63 4,750 54 Hazy
Figure 9: 2.6% TS Novel ingredient, 0.9% TS co-thickener 1/co-thickener 2. Test performed on Clear Antipollution Sulfate-Free Shampoo with Charcoal Beads SH-0202 without the addition of beads to compare viscosity and clarity with and without the addition of a co-thickener. Sulfate-free surfactant blend: 12.1% TS (9.6/2.5). Novel ingredient: 2.6% TS. Co-thickener 1: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate, Propylene Glycol, Water. Co-thickener 2: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate, Propanediol. Sulfate-free surfactant blend: 12.1% TS (9.6/2.5)
www.personalcaremagazine.com 6.8 7.0 Back Acid Thickening - Effect on turbidity 7.2
Viscosity* (mPa·s) Turbidity (NTU)
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